Penguins in the Falkland Islands and an Unforgettable Day at Volunteer Point

Discover penguins in the Falkland Islands through award-winning travel writer and photographer Wendy Nordvik-Carr’s journey to Volunteer Point, where thousands of king, gentoo and Magellanic penguins gather amid pristine white-sand beaches and turquoise South Atlantic waters.

A 50-mile 4×4 journey from Stanley leads to one of the Falkland Islands’ extraordinary wildlife experiences and the islands’ largest breeding group of king penguins.

I was surrounded by thousands of penguins, and I could hardly believe what I was seeing.

King penguins stood shoulder to shoulder with their fluffy brown chicks. Gentoo penguins marched across the grass towards the sea, while Magellanic penguins popped in and out of burrows dug into the soft ground. Their calls filled the air, an almost chilling chorus that added to the sheer spectacle unfolding around me.

I was beyond excited to finally be here. But amid all those penguins, there was another surprise I hadn’t expected.

Beyond the colony stretched a pristine white-sand beach edged by brilliant turquoise waters. It was a scene that seemed almost at odds with everything we typically imagine about penguins.

This wasn’t Antarctica. I was at Volunteer Point in the Falkland Islands, surrounded by one of the most extraordinary wildlife experiences of my travels.

Around one million penguins nest across the Falkland Islands each summer. Five species breed here: king, gentoo, Magellanic, southern rockhopper and macaroni penguins, making this remote South Atlantic archipelago one of the world’s remarkable penguin destinations.

For me, though, the numbers only tell part of the story. Standing at Volunteer Point, listening to thousands of penguins calling while others wandered towards that impossibly beautiful beach, was one of those travel moments I will never forget.

The Falklands are also perfect for spotting other wildlife and sea birds. There are 15 types of whales in the waters, and it’s one of the few places in the world where endangered Sei whales can be spotted near shore.

Stunning white sand beach and turquoise waters at Volunteer Point, Falkland Islands. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©

Where are the Falkland Islands?

The Falkland Islands are a remote British Overseas Territory in the South Atlantic, about 644 kilometres off the east coast of South America. The archipelago comprises hundreds of islands, with East Falkland and West Falkland the largest. Stanley, on East Falkland, is the capital and home to most of the islands’ small population.

Reaching the Falklands is part of the adventure. Access to many of the more remote islands can be challenging, and weather often plays a significant role in travel plans.

When I visited, I arrived by cruise ship after two days at sea from Argentina. We were fortunate that conditions allowed us to tender ashore in Stanley. That isn’t always the case. The notoriously changeable weather of the South Atlantic can make tendering unsafe, forcing cruise ships to miss this much-anticipated port of call.

I had heard stories of cruise passengers who made it ashore only for conditions to deteriorate before they could safely return to their ship. Falkland Islanders reportedly rallied to help, opening their homes and providing stranded visitors with somewhere to sleep and food until conditions improved and they could rejoin their ship.

For travellers arriving independently, flights connect the Falkland Islands with South America, while small aircraft provide an important link between communities and some of the archipelago’s more remote islands.

Where is the best place to see penguins in the Falkland Islands?

You don’t have to travel far from Stanley to see penguins. Gentoo and Magellanic penguins can be found around East Falkland, including at Gypsy Cove and Yorke Bay near the capital.

But I wanted to experience Volunteer Point, one of the Falkland Islands’ most remarkable wildlife destinations.

Located on privately owned Johnson’s Harbour Farm in northeastern East Falkland, Volunteer Point is a nature reserve and Important Bird Area where sweeping grasslands meet a spectacular white-sand beach and turquoise waters. It is home to the Falkland Islands’ largest king penguin colony and is widely regarded as the largest outside South Georgia and Antarctica.

Gentoo and thousands of Magellanic penguins also breed here, giving visitors the chance to see three penguin species in one extraordinary setting.

The penguins aren’t confined to the shoreline. They wander across sandy beaches and through the surrounding grasslands, where sheep graze nearby and Magellanic penguins disappear into burrows beneath the ground.

Getting to Volunteer Point is part of the adventure.

King penguins at Volunteer Point, Falkland Islands. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©

The 4×4 journey to Volunteer Point

My private tour to Volunteer Point was a six-hour adventure covering a roughly 50-mile route in a convoy of four 4x4s. As we left Stanley behind, the landscape became increasingly remote.

We passed rocky mountains, small sheep farms and the Falklands’ unusual stone runs, rivers of rock that spill down hillsides. The journey also took us through landscapes associated with the 1982 Falklands War.

Eventually the road disappeared.

The final portion of the journey took us over grass tracks and rough terrain where an experienced local driver and a capable 4×4 are essential.

Then we arrived.

After that long, bumpy journey across East Falkland, the sight in front of me was extraordinary. Penguins were everywhere.

Views of Mount Harriet on the road to Volunteer Point on the Falkland Islands to see the penguins. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©

Getting to Volunteer Point in the Falkland Islands to see the penguins. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©

Getting to Volunteer Point in the Falkland Islands to see the penguins. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©

Getting to Volunteer Point in the Falkland Islands to see the penguins. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©

Thousands of penguins at Volunteer Point

Stepping out of the vehicle at Volunteer Point, I was virtually surrounded by penguins. Thousands of king, gentoo and Magellanic penguins breed here, gathering across the open grasslands and along the coast.

The sheer number of birds was extraordinary, but so was the sound. Penguin calls carried across the colony as king penguins gathered in large groups, gentoos travelled back and forth towards the sea and Magellanic penguins disappeared into burrows hidden beneath the grass.

When I visited during the first weeks of December, hundreds of large, fluffy brown king penguin chicks were gathered among the adults. They looked remarkably different from their parents, which have sleek black-and-white plumage highlighted by vivid yellow-orange markings around the head and upper chest.

King penguins are the second-largest penguin species in the world, after emperor penguins. Their chicks are covered in thick brown down and gather together in crèches as they grow. Some were incredibly inquisitive. By standing quietly and giving them plenty of space, I could simply watch as they explored their surroundings.

This is a wild colony, and that was what made the experience so remarkable. The penguins weren’t there for us. We were visitors in their world.

Penguins on a pristine white-sand beach

One of the biggest surprises at Volunteer Point was the landscape.

I had expected thousands of penguins. I hadn’t expected a pristine white-sand beach and brilliant turquoise waters.

Penguins are so closely associated with snow and ice that watching them wander across fine white sand towards the Atlantic seemed almost surreal. I watched as groups made their way between the colony and the water, gathering along the shoreline before diving into the sea.
Wildlife always has the right of way here. I kept my distance, stayed clear of the penguins’ routes and never positioned myself between them and the water. Often, the best thing I could do was simply stand still and let the activity unfold around me.

The photographic opportunities were extraordinary, and I was very glad I’d brought my telephoto lens. Rather than following the penguins in search of a photograph, I could stay in one place and wait. Given enough space, they carried on with their natural behaviour — and sometimes came surprisingly close on their own.

Penguins aren’t the only wildlife to watch for at Volunteer Point. The surrounding waters can also offer opportunities to spot Commerson’s dolphins, South American fur seals, southern sea lions and, occasionally, orcas. Seabirds are abundant throughout the Falkland Islands as well.

Wildlife rules at Volunteer Point

This is a wild breeding colony, not a zoo, and protecting the birds and their habitat is essential. Penguins have sharp beaks and flippers. They will bite if they feel threatened. The best wildlife encounters often happen when you simply stop moving and wait.

Visitors must:

• Keep at least six metres between themselves and wildlife.
• Never touch, chase or deliberately approach a penguin. Respect their space. 
• Give penguins right of way, particularly when they are travelling between their colonies and the sea.
• Never block a bird’s route to or from the water.
• Watch carefully for Magellanic penguin burrows and avoid areas with a high concentration of nests.
• Watch where you are walking and avoid burrows. Soil can give way around nests, causing eggs and young to be easily crushed. Burrows can contain thousands of lice.
• Never put a camera into a burrow to get photographs of the bird. The flash can damage birds and lead to the desertion of the nest.
• Avoid disturbing incubating birds, chicks and resting wildlife.
• Follow all instructions provided by local guides and wardens.

How to photograph penguins in the Falkland Islands

Volunteer Point was a dream location for wildlife photography

My most important advice is be patient.

Magellanic penguins can retreat quickly into their burrows if they feel threatened. Instead of following them, I found a place where I could remain still and let them become comfortable with my presence.

The same principle worked with penguins returning from the sea. If I stayed well away from their route, they continued on their way and sometimes passed surprisingly close, entirely on their terms.

A telephoto lens is extremely useful. I photographed the penguins with my Canon 7D Mark II and Canon EF 100–400mm f/4.5–5.6L IS II USM. I also captured some images on my iPhone.

Most importantly, never sacrifice an animal’s welfare for a photograph.

And watch where you put your feet. Magellanic penguin burrows can be difficult to spot.

Travel writer Wendy Nordvik-Carr with thousands of penguins at Volunteer Point in Falkland Islands. Copyrighted Photo.

What penguins can you see in the Falkland Islands?

1. Gentoo Penguins

Gentoo penguins are among the easiest penguins to recognize, with bright orange-red bills and a distinctive white marking across the top of the head. They are widespread throughout the Falklands and can be seen year-round.

Watching them at Volunteer Point was endlessly entertaining. Groups travelled between their nesting areas and the sea, creating natural penguin highways across the landscape.

The Falkland Islands support the world’s largest population of gentoo penguins.

Facts about Gentoo Penguins

• Life expectancy in the wild is 20 years.
• They can reach a maximum height of 2 feet 6 inches (76 cm).
• Gentoo penguins can swim up to 36 miles per hour.

Gentoo Penguins head back from the beach at Volunteer Point Falkland Islands. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©

Gentoo Penguin sits on her egg at Volunteer Point, Falkland Islands. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©

Gentoo Penguins head back from the beach at Volunteer Point Falkland Islands. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©

Gentoo Penguins head back from the beach at Volunteer Point, Falkland Islands. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©

What do Gentoo Penguins sound like?

2. King Penguins

King penguins were the stars of my visit to Volunteer Point. They are the world’s second-largest penguin species, smaller only than emperor penguins. Their elegant black-and-white plumage and orange-yellow markings make the adults unmistakable. Their fluffy brown chicks look so different that early explorers once reportedly mistook young king penguins for a separate species. King chicks stay together in groups called crèches. They rely on each other for protection and warmth. Look at the sad picture below, where a young chick mourns the loss of a companion by sitting on top of a dead chick offering protection. King penguins can be found in the Falklands throughout the year, and Volunteer Point has the islands’ largest breeding colony. Seeing hundreds of brown chicks surrounded by adult birds was extraordinary.

Facts about King Penguins

• These penguins are the second largest in the world. The largest is the Emperor penguin.
• Chicks are born without feathers. It takes them 40 days to develop fluffy feathers, and three years to develop a full adult coat.
• The penguin takes about 15 months to mature.
• Their height ranges between 70-100 cm or 27-29 inches.
• They weigh from 10-16 kg or 22-25 pounds.
• Their scientific name is Aptenodytes patagonicus.
• They eat small fish, squid, and other small crustaceans.
• They breed every three years and the eggs take 50-60 days to hatch.
• Life expectancy is up to 25 years.

A King penguin chick sits on top of a dead chick, mourning the loss of a companion at Volunteer Point, Falkland Islands. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©

King penguins and chicks at Volunteer Point, Falkland Islands. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©

King penguins walking to the beach at Volunteer Point, Falkland Islands. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©

King penguins and chicks at Volunteer Point, Falkland Islands. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©

What do King penguins sound like?

3. Magellanic Penguins

Magellanic penguins lead a very different life. Instead of gathering entirely in exposed colonies, they nest in burrows dug into the soft ground. Their black-and-white colouring includes distinctive dark bands across the chest. They can be surprisingly difficult to see when they retreat into their burrows, which is another reason to tread carefully. A seemingly ordinary patch of grass may contain an active nest. Their loud braying call has also earned them the nickname jackass penguins.

Burrows can be as deep as 2 metres or 7 feet. A woman travelling with us fell and badly hurt herself.

The Magellanic penguin can be found in other areas along the Falklands’ unpopulated coast.

Fast Facts about Magellanic Penguins

• The donkey-like calls of a Magellanic penguin have earned them the local nickname of “jackass” penguins.
• Every winter, they migrate thousands of miles away to Brazil.
• The Magellanic penguin returns every September to the same burrow and the same partner.
• It takes 40-45 days for an egg to hatch.

Magellanic Penguins walking from the beach at Volunteer Point Falkland Islands. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©

Magellanic Penguins on their nest at Volunteer Point Falkland Islands. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©

Magellanic Penguin on their nest at Volunteer Point Falkland Islands. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©

4. Rockhopper Penguins 

The Rockhopper penguin is small and feisty, adorned with spiky yellow crests.  Most of the world’s population migrates to the Falkland Islands in the summer, making their home mainly on the rocky cliffs of the Jason Islands. This area can only be accessed by boat, and special permission is required to set foot on the National Nature Reserve.  

Their name describes exactly what they do: instead of waddling over difficult rocky ground, they hop.

5. Macaroni Penguins

The macaroni is the hardest of the Falklands’ five breeding penguins to find. With its striking yellow-orange crest, it can resemble a rockhopper at first glance.

Macaroni penguins occur in much smaller numbers in the Falklands and may sometimes be spotted among rockhopper colonies.

Finding one takes considerably more luck than spotting a king, gentoo or Magellanic penguin.

More wildlife in the Falkland Islands

Penguins may receive most of the attention, but they are only part of the Falklands’ wildlife story. The islands are internationally important for seabirds and are home to the world’s largest breeding population of black-browed albatross. The surrounding waters also support dolphins, seals and whales.

At Volunteer Point and elsewhere around the islands, the experience is less about ticking individual species off a list and more about seeing how extraordinarily rich this remote South Atlantic ecosystem is.

Is Volunteer Point worth visiting?

Absolutely.

The journey is long, the terrain is rough and the weather in the Falkland Islands can change quickly. I would do it again.

What made Volunteer Point extraordinary wasn’t simply the number of penguins. It was being able to watch them behaving naturally in a vast, open landscape. No zoo enclosures separated me from the animals.

I watched king penguins tending their chicks, gentoos travelling between land and sea and Magellanic penguins disappearing into their burrows.
Then I stood beside an almost impossibly beautiful white-sand beach and watched penguins dive into the Atlantic.

After travelling thousands of kilometres to reach the Falkland Islands and another 50 miles across East Falkland by 4×4, this was the moment I had come for.

And the penguins were worth every bump along the way.

Fast Facts about the Falkland Islands

• Black-browed albatross live and breed on the steep cliffs at 16 locations on the Falkland Islands. This species is the smallest of 27 varieties of albatross in the world. The Falklands have the largest population of this type of seabird.
• The waters of the Falkland Islands are home to 15 types of whales. This is one of the few areas in the world where the endangered Sei whales can be spotted close to shore in Berkeley Sound and the Johnson Harbour area. This whale is the third largest in the world and the fastest-travelling.
• Trees are not native to the island.
• It has a temperate marine climate.
• There are no indigenous people. The islands were uninhabited.
• The British first claimed it in 1752.
• From 1811, the British, French and Spanish, at various times, established garrisons.
• 1845, Stanley became the capital of the Islands.
• April 2, 1982, Argentina invaded the Falkland Islands.
• October 6, 1882, Argentina tried to disregard Britain’s claim.
• January 2, 1883, the Argentine military was ousted by the British Royal Navy.
• June 14, 1982, Britain defeated Argentina. Casualties during the 10-week war: Argentina lost 650 and Britain lost 255.
• 1990, Diplomatic relations between Britain and Argentina were restored. Find out more about important historical dates for the Falkland Islands.

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Discover more incredible places to travel to. Here are a few:

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