I could feel the goosebumps rising from the second I stepped through the aging iron gates of Preservation Hall, a decrepit-looking building in the heart of the French Quarter in New Orleans.
I ducked my head to step through the worn wooden door leading into the tiny music hall and as I raised my eyes to take in the scene laid out before me, the impact of the cultural significance I was about to experience almost took my breath away.
Inside Preservation Hall New Orleans
Sultry jazz music played from overhead speakers as I took in the worn wooden floors and the vintage paintings and photographs of jazz greats from the last 60 years that lined the walls. Two sets of long benches took up the centre of the hall, with several more lining the walls, leaving just enough space at the back for standing room. I was surprised by how intimate the room was.
How long is a show at Preservation Hall?
There are three-to-five shows a night, depending on the day. Each set is 45 minutes.
My friend and I had the great pleasure of sitting in two of the three velvet-lined, antique theatre seats placed just inches from the side of the stage — so close to the drummer I could have reached out and touched him.
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Brief History of Preservation Hall
Preservation Hall opened in 1961 by founders Allan and Sandra Jaffe who had a goal to “protect, preserve and perpetuate” the musical tradition that is New Orleans Jazz and, more importantly, to help care for aging musicians.
According to the Preservation Hall Foundation, the story of the hall dates back to the 1950s at Associated Artists, a small art gallery at 726 St., owned by Larry Borenstein who found it difficult to attend the few remaining local jazz concerts in the area so began inviting those musicians to perform “rehearsal sessions” in the gallery itself.
These sessions featured living legends of New Orleans Jazz, including George Lewis, Punch Miller, Sweet Emma Barrett, Billie and De De Pierce, the Humphrey Brothers, and dozens more.
Today, the 60 musicians who make up the hall’s musical collective play 360 shows each year, which are attended by more than 150,000 music and history lovers from across the globe.
And, while the building has changed very little since the day it opened, the music manages to remain true to its roots, while also evolving to embrace younger musicians who’ve learned traditional styles of jazz from the greats before them and whose music and spirit is embodied in the very fabric of the music hall.
Preservation Hall Jazz Band
We were lucky enough to attend a night the Preservation Hall Jazz Band was in the house and what a night it was. An evolving mix of younger and older musicians, the band has been carrying the torch of New Orleans music for more than 50 years.
Traditional New Orleans Jazz
As the band started, the crowd initially sat in silence as, like us, we were all pretty awestruck by the living history unfolding before us. The band then launched into a swinging set of music celebrating the city’s Afro-Cuban roots, the Afrobeats of Fela Kuti, the Fire Music of Pharoah Sanders and John Coltrane, musical legends including Stevie Wonder and Elvis Costello, and modern performers such as Arcade Fire and the Black Keys. You can stream their music here.
So, it wasn’t long before the crowd has singing along, clapping their hands and stomping their feet. I would have liked to join in, but was too afraid of knocking the drum kit over.
After the show, the band stayed around to meet with fans and sign autographs. And, they were super friendly and really looked like they were enjoying themselves, unlike other meet-and-greet events I’ve attended. As we streamed back out of those iron gates, the line up out the door to get into the next show snaked down the block, testament to the hall’s popularity.
Tips to plan a visit to Preservation Hall New Orleans
Since this is part of a first-timers guide to the music scene in New Orleans, here are a few more “know before you go,” tips to help you plan.
- Make a reservation: Preservation Hall is famous world-wide and no trip to New Orleans would be complete without checking out a show
- Please arrive at least 20 minutes prior to your scheduled performance
- Each set is 45 minutes
- There is no alcohol sold at the show
- Preservation Hall is all ages, so children are welcome
- There are no public washrooms
- You cannot stay for a second show
Be sure to read our review of Virgin Hotels New Orleans. We appreciated the friendly service, great eats and eclectic vibe. Don’t miss our first-timers guide to the music scene in New Orleans.
Where is Preservation Hall?
Preservation Hall is located at 726 Saint Peter Street in the heart of the French Quarter, between Bourbon and Royal Street.
Sandra Thomas and Wendy Nordvik-Carr attended various locations throughout Louisiana as part of a press trip by Explore Louisiana, Visit New Orleans, Visit Lafayette, Visit Lake Charles and Visit Shreveport, which did not read or approve of this article before it was published.
Have you been here? Want to go or have other tips or comments. We'd love to hear from you.