Jarlshof Shetland is one of the most remarkable archaeological sites in Scotland, preserving more than 4,000 years of continuous human settlement in a single location. Located on the southern tip of the Shetland Islands, this extraordinary site traces the lives of Neolithic farmers, Bronze Age families, Iron Age communities, Viking settlers and medieval residents, all of whom chose to build their homes overlooking the West Voe of Sumburgh. Few places in Britain tell such a complete story of human history.
Walking through Jarlshof, history unfolds with every few steps, revealing another chapter of Scotland’s story, with each generation leaving its mark before the next arrived. The result is an archaeological timeline unlike anywhere else in Britain.
The first settlers arrived around 2700 BC during the Late Neolithic period, and people continued living here until the early 1600s. Rather than abandoning the site, each generation built on top of or alongside earlier settlements, creating an extraordinary archaeological record.
As I passed through the remarkably preserved ruins overlooking the North Sea, the wind carried a salty tang from the ocean and my footsteps crunched softly on ancient stones. It was impossible not to wonder what life had been like for the families who called this windswept headland home.
Prehistoric Jarlshof Shetland Viking settlement in Scotland. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
More than 4,000 years of continuous settlement
One of the things that makes Jarlshof so exceptional is the continuity of human occupation. Instead of building elsewhere, successive communities chose to remain here, adapting the settlement as cultures, technology and lifestyles evolved.
Archaeological excavations carried out between 1880 and 1950 uncovered an extraordinary sequence of settlements. Visitors can explore the remains of Late Neolithic homes, distinctive Bronze Age oval houses, an impressive Iron Age broch, mysterious wheelhouses, Viking longhouses, a medieval farmstead, and the remains of a laird’s residence dating from the 1500s. As you walk through the site, informative interpretive signage helps bring each era to life, and guided tours are available for those who want a deeper understanding of the people and stories uncovered here. Paths wind through the different layers of history, allowing visitors to see up close how each generation left its mark on the landscape.
Prehistoric Jarlshof Shetland Viking settlement in Scotland. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
The Wheelhouses at Jarlshof
The four wheelhouses are among Jarlshof’s most distinctive and intriguing features.
The name comes from the ring of stone piers extending from a central living space, creating the appearance of a wagon wheel when viewed from above. Although archaeologists have studied these unusual buildings for decades, their exact purpose is still unknown.
Most agree they were used as homes, but some believe they also served as communal gathering places or spaces with ceremonial significance. The mystery only adds to the appeal, as we imagine how these impressive buildings may once have been used.
The Wheelhouse at Prehistoric Jarlshof Shetland Viking settlement in Scotland. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Prehistoric Jarlshof Shetland Viking settlement in Scotland. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
The mystery of the Iron Age broch
Among the most impressive structures at Jarlshof is the Iron Age broch. Unique to Scotland, brochs were massive circular stone towers built with double walls that may once have risen several storeys into the air. Although their exact purpose remains the subject of archaeological debate, many historians believe they served as fortified family homes, while others suggest they symbolized wealth, prestige or leadership within the community.
Standing inside the thick stone walls today, it is remarkable to consider the engineering skills required to construct such an imposing building nearly 2,000 years ago.
The Iron Age Broch Prehistoric Jarlshof Shetland Viking settlement in Scotland. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Prehistoric Jarlshof Shetland Viking settlement in Scotland. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Shetland’s Viking heritage: When the Vikings arrived
By the ninth century, Norse settlers had crossed the North Sea and established themselves in Shetland.
At Jarlshof, they built timber longhouses over parts of the earlier settlement, bringing new farming methods, traditions and language that would have a lasting mark on the islands. Even today, many Shetland place names have Old Norse origins, indicating the strong connection between these islands and Scandinavia.
Strolling through the remains of the Viking longhouses, it becomes easy to picture families assembled around central hearths while fierce Atlantic storms battered the coastline outside.
Everyday life revealed through remarkable discoveries
Jarlshof is not famous because of spectacular treasures or royal palaces. Instead, its greatest discoveries reveal the lives of ordinary people.
Soapstone bowls, stone baking plates, oil lamps, tools and household objects uncovered during excavations offer a rare glimpse into daily life across thousands of years. These artifacts tell the story of families preparing meals, making clothing, crafting tools and responding to the challenges of living on these remote northern islands.
Prehistoric Jarlshof Shetland Viking settlement in Scotland. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
From a medieval farm to the laird’s house
Jarlshof continued to evolve long after the Viking Age. During medieval times, a farmstead occupied the site before a fortified laird’s residence was constructed during the 1500s. By the early 17th century, however, the settlement was gradually abandoned.
If you plan to visit, Jarlshof is open to visitors most of the year and has a small visitor centre on site. Parking is available nearby, and guided tours are often offered during the summer months. Tickets can usually be purchased upon arrival or in advance online. A café and toilet facilities are located within walking distance at Sumburgh Hotel, making it easy to enjoy a comfortable and memorable visit.
Fast facts
- 1880-1950 Jarlshof is excavated.
- Iron Age came after the Bronze and Stone Age. The time period is defined by the materials used to make tools and weapons.
- Six eras are represented here: Neolithic, Bronze Age, Iron Age, Viking, medieval and 16th century.
- Oldest settlement: Dates to around 2700 BC.
- Did you know? Sir Walter Scott coined the name Jarlshof in his 1821 novel The Pirate.
Sumburgh Hotel and Puffins
After spending the morning exploring Jarlshof, we stopped for lunch at the nearby Sumburgh Hotel. It was the perfect place to relax and reflect on everything we had seen before continuing our journey to nearby Sumburgh Head, where soaring seabirds, dramatic cliffs and spectacular coastal views provided a fitting end to an unforgettable day. Here, I fell in love with the puffins.
There are three large Puffin colonies on the rugged, windswept Shetland Islands. Visit Sumburgh Head Nature Reserve near Jarlshof to see some of the thousands of birds nesting here in the spring and summer. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Planning your visit to Jarlshof Shetland
I arrived in the Shetland Islands aboard a Holland America Line cruise after sailing from Copenhagen and Bergen. For me, this wasn’t simply another port of call. Visiting Shetland had been on my travel wish list for many years because of my family’s connection to these remarkable islands during the Second World War. That personal story made every stop even more meaningful.
If you plan to visit Jarlshof Shetland, allow at least one to two hours to explore the site at a leisurely pace. The self-guided route winds through more than 4,000 years of history, with interpretive displays explaining each period of settlement and the remarkable archaeological discoveries made here. Comfortable walking shoes and a waterproof jacket are recommended, as Shetland’s weather can change quickly, even in summer.
Getting to Jarlshof
Jarlshof is located on the southern tip of Shetland Mainland, overlooking the West Voe of Sumburgh. If you’re arriving by air, it’s only a few minutes from Sumburgh Airport, making it one of the island’s most accessible historic attractions.
Many visitors arrive in the Shetland Islands aboard the overnight ferry from Aberdeen to Lerwick, while others choose one of the regular flights from mainland Scotland. If you’re bringing a vehicle, the ferry offers a convenient way to explore the islands at your own pace.
Visiting Jarlshof by cruise ship
Cruise passengers docking in Lerwick will find Jarlshof one of the island’s finest shore excursions. The drive south takes about 40 minutes through rolling countryside and dramatic coastal scenery. While organized cruise excursions are available, I recommend hiring a local taxi if you’re travelling independently. Many drivers offer customized island tours and share fascinating local knowledge while taking you to Jarlshof, Sumburgh Head and other highlights across South Mainland.
Before you go
Before visiting the Shetland Islands, sit down and watch a few episodes of the BBC television series Shetland. While the popular crime drama wasn’t filmed at Jarlshof itself, it beautifully captures the islands’ rugged landscapes, changing weather and close-knit communities. Truthfully, we binge-watched the series. By the time we arrived, many of the places we visited already felt strangely familiar.
More stories from the Shetland Islands
Jarlshof was only the beginning of my exploration of these remarkable islands.
In the coming articles, I’ll be sharing more of Shetland’s extraordinary history, including the remarkable story of the Shetland Bus—the daring wartime operation that secretly carried resistance fighters, refugees and supplies between Shetland and occupied Norway during the Second World War.
For me, that story is deeply personal. My own father escaped Nazi-occupied Norway aboard one of those dangerous crossings before joining the famous Linge Company. Walking through the Shetland Islands, where so many of those courageous voyages began, brought my family’s history full circle in a way I never expected.
I’ll also be exploring Lerwick, Sumburgh Head, spectacular coastal landscapes and the people who continue to shape these extraordinary northern islands. I hope you’ll join me as this journey continues.
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About the Author:
Wendy Nordvik-Carr is a highly regarded travel writer who produces quality, well-researched articles with stunning photography and video.
She seeks out authentic experiences showcasing the people, culture and history that make each destination unique. Her focus is on solo, couple and multigenerational travel through cruising, air and road trip adventures.
Wendy is the editor & writer for LifesIncredibleJourney.com, an award-winning travel site that encourages exploration of destinations near & far.
She is a TMAC Director, Chair, National Governance Committee and Chair of TMAC's BC & Yukon Chapter, as well as a member of SATW, IFWTWA and NATJA.
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