Our guide to Mardi Gras, the authentic Louisiana experience, will help you find the best there is to celebrate this special time of year. It’s more than just a party!
Before visiting this area, we were under the misconception that Mardi Gras was simply a huge wild party involving a parade, food and lots to drink over a few days in New Orleans, mainly in the French Quarter. And, while there’s certainly nothing wrong with a huge party, parades and drinks, we had no idea there’s so much more to it — and it can be very family-friendly.
It’s a time celebrated across the state, seeped in culture and time-honored traditions observed for centuries. Mardi Gras in Louisiana is a one-of-a-kind celebration.
Guide to Mardi Gras beyond New Orleans – Celebrations Across Louisiana
We had to take a deep dive into the subject of Mardi Gras and Carnival to find out how it is celebrated in Louisiana by visiting four distinct areas of the state, Lake Charles, Shreveport-Bossier, LaFayette and of course the Big Easy, New Orleans, or as some call it NOLA. Each area does it a little differently depending on their time-honored traditions.
It’s a season when people gather and share their rich cultural heritage with formal and informal get-togethers, balls, parades and other festivities, which always include some form of music and flavorful Mardi Gras cuisine, including classic favorites like gumbo, jambalaya, and King Cake.
Be sure to check out our series of stories about travel to Louisiana to learn more.
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When is Mardi Gras?
Mardi Gras 2024 falls on February 13, Shrove Tuesday, also known as Pancake Day, one day before Ash Wednesday. The word Mardis Gras translates to Fat Tuesday in French.
Mardi Gras dates are different every year and is tied to the Christian religious ceremonial requirements of Lent, a period of time (about six weeks) leading up to Easter. In 2024, Lent begins on Ash Wednesday and runs 40 days from February 14 until March 28. During Lent, practicing Christians observe fasting, prayers and to take time for reflection.
Mardis Gras celebrations begin long before this date, starting on Jan. 6, the day of Epiphany, the 12th day of Christmas, known as Little Christmas or Three Kings Day. This day of feast, commemorates the Three Wise Men’s visit to baby Jesus bearing gifts. It’s also the start of Carnival season and King Cakes, a long-standing Louisiana tradition.
History of Mardi Gras in Louisiana
Mardi Gras’ roots trace back to Louisiana’s Spanish and French influences and has evolved over the centuries. Here are just a few of the lesser known traditions and customs celebrated in the different regions.
Cajun Mardi Gras
Cajun Mardi Gras is also called Courir de Mardi Gras. These festivities take place in Cajun and Creole communities in Southwestern Louisiana on Fat Tuesday. The longtime tradition has its roots in medieval France, by way of the Acadian settlers, in what is now known as Nova Scotia, Canada. In 1755, the British exiled all Acadians leaving them with nothing more than the shirt on their backs.
Arriving in Southwestern Louisiana’s rural areas, life was tough, but they were resourceful. Without money for costumes, they created outfits and face coverings from whatever scrapes of material they could find.
I was lucky to be invited to a private Ossun Courir de Mardi Gras to experience the strange, but wonderful antics of this long-established custom.
In Scott, just outside Lafayette, the revelers travel in an open trailer pulled by a truck, going from house-to-house begging for money. A flag is placed at the foot of a home’s driveway to indicated their wish to entertain these shenanigans.
When the revelers are let loose, they immediately start to beg at your feet for some coins. They quickly disperse as soon as the music starts and merrily dance, drink, mingle and eat, until the chicken comes out.
Then the chicken race is on. It’s a mad scramble to see who will catch the poor thing to add to their gumbo. Today though, it’s merely just a game.
Ossan Courir de Mardi Gras celebrations in Scott Louisiana near Lafayette, 2.5 hours from New Orleans
Courir de Mardi Gras is a tradition passed down through the centuries originating in Medieval France: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Black Mardi Gras
The Zulu Krewe
At the Imperial Calcasieu Museum in Lake Charles, we learned from creative coordinator Ashley Royer, that Louisiana was segregated up until 1992. It was because of this law that African Americans built their own communities, their own Krewes, and their own special traditions.
The Zulu Krewe is the oldest Black Krewe in Louisiana, dating back more than 100 years to the early 1900s. In New Orleans, Zulu held the first Black Mardi Gras parade in 1909 to celebrate their African heritage. One of their unique traditions, still practiced today, is to pass out Zulu Coconuts as a Carnival throw.
Even though segregation no longer exists, Black Krewes hold their own Carnival, to celebrate their roots and community.
The Baby Dolls of New Orleans
The iconic Black Baby Dolls built their celebration parade in the red light district because of segregation. At that time, men commonly referred to the women as “baby dolls,” so they took that for the theme of their Krewe and their unique style of costumes. To this day, it’s still a long held custom for them to wear cute little bloomer dresses and umbrellas.
Black Mardi Gras Indians (also known as Black Masking Indian Tribe)
In the 1800s, Indigenous American people provided sanctuary and support to runaway slaves forming a unique bond between the two communities.
The Montana family started Black Masking in New Orleans in the 1880s, and 2023 marked the 150th anniversary of this legacy. They fashioned their costumes after the elaborate ceremonial regalia of their caring Indigenous friends.
Tribe chief Darryl Montana has been making his own intricate designs for the Yellow Pocahontas Hunters for more than 50 years. The yellow costume below took more than 5,000 hours for the beading alone.
Two of Tribal Chief Darryl Montana’s intricate Black Masking designs on display at the Imperial Calcasieu Museum in Lake Charles, Louisiana. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Tribal Chief Darryl Montana’s intricate Black Masking designs on display at the Imperial Calcasieu Museum in Lake Charles, Louisiana. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Tribal Chief Darryl Montana’s intricate Black Masking designs on display at the Imperial Calcasieu Museum in Lake Charles, Louisiana. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Krewe de Classique
In 1987, Bernard and Dolores Beaco and Alexander Johnson founded Black Mardi Gras in Lake Charles, Louisiana. They called it Krewe de Classique.
Bernard was a raised in New Orleans and grew up watching the hive of Mardi Gras activity there. When he moved to Lake Charles, he missed that excitement and knew he had to do something about it, thus, Krewe of Class was born. Their membership flourished with a wide variety of individuals, some coming from as far as Baton Rouge and Houston.
Dolores Beaco made all the garments displaying their chosen colors of black, silver, and gold. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
What are the colors of Mardi Gras?
Since 1872, three colors dominate Carnival season, green, purple and gold. Green is for faith, purple signifies justice, and gold represents power. These colors were initiated by New Orleans Carnival King Rex. Read more below about Kings, Queens and Krewes.
Green, purple and gold signify the colors of Mardi Gras. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
What the heck is a Mardi Gras Krewe?
I certainly did not know what a Krewe was until my visit to Southern Louisiana. There was excited talk of Krewes, Kings and Queens everywhere.
Krewes are extremely important and, without them, Carnival parades and events would not happen. Krewes are membership organizations, complete with dues, that create the magic of Mardi Gras.
I really admire the sense of community and efforts it takes to keep everyone engaged and connected throughout the year as a team — and the desire to have a whole lot of fun.
While each Krewe hold various events, such as float-loading parties and gumbo cook-offs, and has a chair and volunteers, each plans its own celebrations. Volunteers help with the upkeep and repairs on the float and as an incentive, they receive points to allow them to ride in the parade. If there is a gala ball involved, those points also give them the order in which they can pick their table locations in the venue.
If a Krewe does host a formal ball, that’s where the Queen and King for the year is announced. There may also Dukes, Duchesses and captains. These events are not usually open to the general public, but outside guests can attend if invited.
How do you become a King and Queen?
Each year the King and Queen is selected by vote and, once elected, they are treated like royalty — typically it’s a couple that is elected. The interested parties put their own names forth, because there is a big expense attached to this honored title.
The expenses cover elaborately stunning outfits, any guests attending, beads or other types of “throws,” and food and refreshments. The costs can really mount up.
Krewe of Gemini Shreveport-Bossier
Krewe of Gemini Parade is said to be one of the best in the area of Shreveport and Bossier City, Louisiana. This Krewe organized and created the first Mardi Gras celebrations in their city in February 1990, rolling out 12 grand floats.
Krewe of Gemini Mardi Gras parade two, Kings and Queen in Shreveport-Bossier Louisiana. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
A gorgeous Krewe of Gemini Mardi Gras Queen in Shreveport-Bossier Louisiana. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Two Krewes of Gemini Mardi Gras Kings and Queens in Shreveport-Bossier Louisiana. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Mardi Gras Floats
An expert on floats, Jeff Benoit from B & O Kitchen & Grocery in Sulphur, LA, just outside Lake Charles told us that all standard floats built need to be least eight-feet-wide, but a mega float, which he has, for example, is 12-feet-wide, 53-feet-long and can hold up to 80 people. This type of float would fall to the back of the line because of its width and two floats can not be stacked side-by-side on the roadway.
Some of the more elaborate parade floats come complete with all the amenities, including two bathrooms, drink holders and bead and throw holders.
The catwalk is for the court and the founding members of the Krewe, with the membership below. The King and Queen would be on the top level of the float, which is the place to be for the best view. You can see all the floats and the people down below. The King and Queen would be on the top level of the float, which is the place to be for the best view. You can see all the floats and the people down below. Every year is a different theme and the float, along with the shirts or outfits, change to match.
Jeff Benoit from B & O Kitchen & Grocery, stands on his Krewe’s float in Sulphur, LA just outside Lake Charles. Family-run B & O Kitchen & Grocery specializes in Cajun and Creole foods and is located on the Southwest Louisiana Boudin Trail. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Floats at the Krewe of Gemini parade in Shreveport-Bossier Louisiana: Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Other parade participants at the Krewe of Gemini parade in Shreveport-Bossier Louisiana. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
What is a throw?
Throws can be an assortment of items. Beads and (faux) doubloons are the most popular, but there can be shirts, cups, little King Cakes, Moon pies, stuffed toys, balloons and bouncing balls. One float, in a parade I attended in Shreveport, threw hand sanitizer and deodorant.
The object of the parade crowd is to collect as many throws as possible. Shouts can be heard along the route yelling “throw me something mister/sister,” trying to get the attention of the float participants.
Tip: If you really want to collect a lot of throws, waiting closer to the end of the parade route is ideal as throwers try to get rid of everything on board.
But, you also want to keep your eyes open because being in the crowd can be a precarious proposition and throws can hit you in the face or other body parts if you’re not looking. I know first-hand, because my hand was bruised by a flying deodorant (of all things).
Although a unique experience and a lot of fun, riding on a float can also be hazard. I rode on a double-decker float in Downtown Lafayette. Another word of caution — the nails holding the throws can really harm you because you are bounced against them when the vehicle sways or goes over a speed bump. Luckily, my friend had lent me a hat and I swear this saved my life when the back of my head was thrown against one of these nails.
Fun from the top of a parade float in Downtown Lafayette, Louisiana. Photo, bottom right is travel writer, Terri Guthrie, whose hat saved my life. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
What is a King Cake?
The tradition of King Cakes started in France as early as the 12th century. The cakes come out on 12th day of Christmas and are available up until the day after Mardi Gras on Ash Wednesday.
Today, King Cakes in Louisiana are available in bakeries, coffee shops, and almost every store you enter. They are decorated with the colors of Carnival and may have other adornments. Cakes can be plain, but most bakers add their own special twist filling them with creamed cheese, fruit preserves and other yummy surprises.
King Cakes will often have a hidden treasure inside, like a symbol of a baby or a coin. Whoever finds this trinket will be be blessed with good luck.
What is a King Cake? Here is a cream filled King Cake showing a plastic baby found inside.
Fast Facts about Mardi Gras
- Since 1875, Mardi Gras is a legal holiday in Louisiana.
- About 25 million pounds of items are thrown in parades each year. Yes, there is a recycling program.
- Over one million people visit New Orleans for Mardi Gras each year.
- In New Orleans, corporate sponsorships of parade floats are not allowed. All parade float expenses are paid for by its Krewe or riders.
- A mask must be worn or face paint to ride on a float in New Orleans. It’s the law.
Note: The sunning acrylic artwork on the upper left corner of the featured image is from the very talented self-taught Cajun French artist from New Orleans, Lauren Marie Breaux. Lauren Marie relocated her family, art, and self to Albuquerque, New Mexico. Follow her art work here.
Learn more about Louisiana.
Wendy Nordvik-Carr and Sandra Thomas attended various locations throughout Louisiana as part of a press trip by Explore Louisiana, Visit New Orleans, Visit Lafayette, Visit Lake Charles and Visit Shreveport, which did not review or approve of this article before it was published.
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Wendy Nordvik-Carr is a highly regarded travel writer who produces quality, well-researched articles with stunning photography and video.
She seeks out authentic experiences showcasing the people, culture and history that make each destination unique. Her focus is on solo, couple and multigenerational travel through cruising, air and road trip adventures.
Wendy is the editor & writer for LifesIncredibleJourney.com, a travel site that encourages exploration of destinations near & far.
She is a TMAC Director, Chair, National Governance Committee and Chair of TMAC's BC & Yukon Chapter, as well as a member of SATW and NATJA.
Award-winning journalist and travel writer, based in Vancouver, B.C. Co-chair of the B.C. Chapter of the Travel Media Association of Canada, member of the Society of American Travel Writers.
I love New Orleans and visited several times – but, never during Mardi Gras. It is really on my bucket list and I love your guide and pictures! The Kings Cake looks delicious!
I grew up experiencing Carnival in Trinidad but Mardi Gras is on my list. I also want to go and eat my way through New Orleans!