Cloudstreet Vancouver is the new restaurant at Hyatt Regency Vancouver, where Chef Craig Sung has come full circle with a menu featuring Alberta bison, BC steelhead and regional flavours.
I had an early taste of the fall and winter menu during a media dinner ahead of Cloudstreet’s official grand opening on September 18, and there was a lot to like.
Three preparations of bison immediately caught my attention. I order bison whenever I find it on a menu, so serving it as carpaccio, braised Alberta bison short rib and bison pappardelle certainly had my attention.
Then there were the beets and burrata — another combination I find hard to resist — along with crab and prawn toast, PEI mussels and beautifully roasted BC steelhead.
And dessert? Choosing a favourite became almost impossible.
But there is also an interesting story behind the food. Chef de Cuisine Craig Sung has returned to the same Hyatt Regency Vancouver kitchen where he began his career as a teenager.
“It was a very surreal, full-circle moment because this is kind of where I started my career,” Sung told me. “Now I’m back running the restaurant under Chef Daniel’s leadership.”
Hyatt Regency Vancouver Executive Chef Daniel Chiang and Cloudstreet Chef de Cuisine Craig Sung. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
A fresh new look for Cloudstreet
Cloudstreet occupies the second floor of Hyatt Regency Vancouver at Burrard and Georgia. Steps from Burrard SkyTrain Station, it is an easy place to meet friends for lunch, drinks or dinner downtown.
Large windows overlooking the heart of downtown fill the contemporary dining room with natural light. Warm woods and pale upholstered seating contrast with a dramatic blue-green feature wall punctuated by glowing circular lights. Curved banquettes, contemporary artwork and sculptural lighting help give the room an identity quite separate from the traditional hotel restaurant.
It is polished without feeling overly formal, transitioning easily from breakfast and lunch during the day to cocktails and dinner in the evening.
Our media dinner was held in a beautifully appointed private dining space, where a long table was set for a family-style introduction to Sung’s menu. The intimate room is separate from the main dining area, making it an appealing option for celebrations, business dinners or gatherings with friends.
Private dining room inside Cloudstreet Vancouver, the new restaurant at Hyatt Regency Vancouver led by Chef de Cuisine Craig Sung. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Bison takes centre stage at Cloudstreet
Bison carpaccio was the lightest, with paper-thin slices forming the base of a beautifully presented small plate. A generous braised Alberta bison short rib was slowly cooked until tender and served in a rich, glossy sauce, while bison pappardelle paired broad ribbons of pasta with a hearty bison sauce.
Sung’s enthusiasm for bison goes back to his time at Forage, the former Vancouver restaurant where he served as executive chef. “I find it to be a more Canadian product,” Sung said. “It’s a lot leaner, a lot cleaner, and I find the taste to be a lot sweeter.”
Cloudstreet has given him the opportunity to explore this again.
Burrata and beets are always a good idea
Cloudstreet’s beet and burrata was one of the prettiest dishes on the table, combining jewel-toned and golden beets with creamy burrata and fresh, bright flavours.
The crab and prawn toast was another favourite. Crisp golden toast held the seafood filling, delivering that irresistible mix of crunch on the outside and softness within.
PEI mussels arrived with grilled bread, adding an East Coast connection to the table.
Family-style service was perfect for a preview like this. We could taste our way around Sung’s menu instead of committing to a single appetizer and main.
Coloourful Beet and Burrata with the Bison Carpaccio. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Crab and prawn toast and PEI Mussels. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Roasted BC steelhead and a table full of mains
Along with the braised Alberta bison short rib and bison pappardelle came roasted BC steelhead and herb-roasted chicken breast.
The steelhead was another standout for me. Beautifully cooked with crisp skin, it was exactly the kind of ingredient I expect to see highlighted on a menu inspired by the Pacific Northwest.
Cloudstreet sommelier Diego Castaneda introduced the wines as our dinner progressed, adding context to the pairings.
The small plates were paired with Louis Latour Gamay from France and Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand. With the mains, the focus moved closer to home with Burrowing Owl Merlot and Pinot Gris from BC’s Okanagan Valley.
With several dishes on the table at once, it was interesting to see how the wines worked across bison, seafood and vegetables.
By this point, Sung’s range was becoming clear. The menu moves comfortably between seafood, meat, vegetables and pasta rather than relying on one dish to define it.
Dinner served family-style in the private dining room and Cloudstreet sommelier Diego Castaneda introducing Cloudy Bay and Bourgogne Gamay. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Braised Alberta Bison Short Rib and Roasted BC Steelhead Salmon. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Bison Pappardelle and Herb-roasted Chicken Breast. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Craig Sung comes full circle at Hyatt Regency Vancouver
Hyatt Regency Vancouver was only Sung’s second kitchen job. He was about 18 or 19 when he started working at the hotel. He remained with Hyatt for seven years before an opportunity took him to Australia, where he spent approximately five years.
Eventually, he returned to Vancouver and went on to run the kitchen at Forage, known for its commitment to local ingredients and producers. After Forage closed for redevelopment, Sung moved into culinary education. Then another opportunity emerged at a very familiar hotel.
Executive Chef Daniel Chiang had known Sung since those early Hyatt days and was one of the senior chefs who helped guide him as a young cook.
Sung initially returned to help out before Chiang asked whether he wanted to come back full-time.
“Without the mentors I had, I would not be where I am today,” Sung told me.
Now that relationship has evolved. According to Sung, Chiang has given him considerable freedom to develop Cloudstreet’s food. “This is your baby. Go with it. Run with it,” Sung recalled Chiang telling him.
Behind the scenes in the Cloudstreet kitchen
I always find it fascinating to see what happens in a chef’s kitchen. The calm presentation in the dining room gives way to movement, concentration and precision. A line of desserts stretched across the stainless-steel work surface as Sung and members of the culinary team added sauces and garnishes, checking each plate before sending it into the dining room.
Seeing multiple versions of the same dish being assembled simultaneously gives you a different appreciation of restaurant cooking. Each one has to look right and reach the dining room at the right moment. Watching the team work also gave me a closer look at what was coming next.
Dessert. Or, more accurately, desserts.
Inside the kitchen with Chef de Cuisine Craig Sung at Cloudstreet Hyatt Regency Vancouver. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Chef de Cuisine Craig Sung torches the Vanilla Crème Brûlée, and Sous Chef Rin prepares the wood-fired Apple Pie. Photo: Wendy Nordvi-Carr©
Four desserts and almost no hope of choosing a favourite
Our sweet plates included vanilla crème brûlée, wood-fired apple pie, sticky toffee pudding and a chocolate ganache bar.
The crème brûlée offered the familiar pleasure of cracking through a caramelized top into silky custard. Sticky toffee pudding brought rich, comforting flavours, while the beautifully presented chocolate ganache bar delivered the full chocolate experience.
And then there was the apple pie. That one came with a story.
The apple pie that travelled from Australia to Vancouver
Sung first developed his apple pie recipe while working in Australia and has continued to refine it throughout his career.
The dessert remains particularly personal. He described the recipe as “near and dear” to him because of its Australian origins and the years he has spent developing it.
At Cloudstreet, he has something new to work with — a wood-burning oven. “I can actually do a wood-burning apple pie,” Sung said, explaining that the oven allows him to introduce another layer of flavour and smokiness.
I watched the individual pies being prepared in the kitchen before ours arrived at the table, warm and served with ice cream.
Cloudstreet Vancouver
Where: Hyatt Regency Vancouver, 655 Burrard Street, Vancouver
Location: Second floor
Dining: Breakfast, lunch and dinner
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Wendy Nordvik-Carr attended a hosted media preview of Cloudstreet’s fall and winter menu. All opinions and editorial content are my own.
About the Author:
Wendy Nordvik-Carr is a highly regarded travel writer who produces quality, well-researched articles with stunning photography and video.
She seeks out authentic experiences showcasing the people, culture and history that make each destination unique. Her focus is on solo, couple and multigenerational travel through cruising, air and road trip adventures.
Wendy is the editor & writer for LifesIncredibleJourney.com, an award-winning travel site that encourages exploration of destinations near & far.
She is a TMAC Director, Chair, National Governance Committee and Chair of TMAC's BC & Yukon Chapter, as well as a member of SATW, IFWTWA and NATJA.
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