Sint Maarten Cultural Tour Beyond the Beaches and Cruise Ship Stops

Most visitors arriving in Sint Maarten head straight to Maho Beach, where planes pass very low overhead as they land and depart from SMX. For us, the goal was different; we wanted to truly understand the island and its people in the short time we had.

When we travel, we look for meaningful engagements and experiences that go beyond the surface to understand a place, its values and what matters to the people who live there. We want to learn their story and to respect where they live.

With only one day in port during our Star Clipper Tall Ship Treasure Islands sailing, we booked a full-day cultural experience with Seagrape Tours before arrival. That one choice changed how we experienced the island.

Seagrape Tours – Why Choosing the Right Tour in Sint Maarten Matters

Instead of seeing more sights, we aimed to gain a greater understanding of Sint Maarten: its people, history and culture.

Founded on January 1, 2021, by Nascha Kagie and Werner van de Zilver, Seagrape Tours offers meaningful small-group tours. Tours focus on places that showcase the island’s culture, daily life, food systems, history and ecological issues.

Werner spent the day guiding us, explaining what life here is like beyond what visitors see, not only facts, but perspectives; how people work, maintain traditions and adapt.

At every stop, Werner gave us a reason for being there, connecting each place to Sint Maarten’s culture.

Why the Names Are Different?

There’s nowhere else in the world quite like Sint Maarten and Saint Martin; it is the smallest inhabited landmass shared by two countries, the Kingdom of the Netherlands and France, each with unique influences.

• Sint Maarten (Dutch spelling)
  is used on the southern side of the island. Dutch is the official language, though English is widely spoken.
• Saint Martin (French spelling)
  is used on the northern side. French is the official language.
• St. Maarten / St. Martin
  are simply shortened versions of the names. You’ll see them used in travel writing, maps and marketing, especially for international visitors.

Map of Sint Maarten in the Caribbean. Google Maps

Salt, Settlement and the Story Behind Sint Maarten, St. Martin, St. Maarten

Long before tourism, Sint Maarten was built on salt. Located in Philipsburg, “the salt pickers” monument pays tribute to the first settlers of the land.

Our guide explained that well before European arrival, the Arawak Indigenous people moved freely across the island, attracted by its natural salt ponds, giving rise to the island’s earliest identity as “The Land of Salt.”

These salt ponds drew European settlers as early as 1631, who began to harvest the salt to trade and ship across the Caribbean and beyond. Called “white gold,” it shaped the island’s economy for centuries. At its peak, production neared 337,000 tonnes annually. The Dutch stopped production in 1941, followed by the French in 1967. This history remains visible across the landscape today, uniting past and present.

In 1648, the island was divided between France and the Netherlands by the Treaty of Mont Concordia. Both wanted access to the resources, so instead of fighting, they agreed to share.

Today, it’s known as “The Friendly Island,” and that warmth is real. You feel it in the people, in the conversations and in the pride they carry for their culture.

View of Philipsburg, St. Maarten. Photo: Stephanie Carr©

St. Maarten Johnny Cakes

Our first stop of the day was at La Bomba Bar in Cole Bay, famously known for freshly made Johnny cakes.

Johnny cakes began as a necessity. They are made from simple, affordable ingredients — flour, water, salt and fat—mixed, shaped, fried, then filled. Over time, they became a Caribbean staple, adapting but staying close to their origins. Everyone has their own special spin on the recipe, some adding sugar and baking soda. La Bomba was secretive about their ingredient list, but they did say they do not use milk or butter.

Cheese or salt fish (dried cod), the traditional filling, tells its own story, preserved for transport, traded widely and still part of daily cooking.

For our filling, we chose thick, creamy slices of avocado from the largest avocado we’ve had, brought in from the Dominican Republic, a neighbouring Caribbean country.

We ordered our Johnny Cakes to go along with homemade lemon and tamarind juice to enjoy later on our route. When we finally ate them, they were crispy and golden on the outside, soft on the inside, delicious and comforting.

Originally, Johnny Cakes were called Journey Cakes. Over time, various dialects changed the name. This bread (cake) would be what the settlers would take on a long journey, as it was easy to carry and did not require refrigeration or utensils.

Tip: If you go, try to avoid the lunchtime rush and maybe call ahead, because they may sell out of Johnny cakes.

Sint Maarten Johnny Cakes at La Bomba Bar. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr and Stephanie Carr©

Titah Frock and the Power of Women’s Craft

Now it was time to learn more about cultural heritage. Our Creations St. Maarten Arts and Crafts Foundation, a nonprofit organization, is working hard to keep the Sint Maarten culture alive for generations to come.

At Titah Frock, we had a chance to let our creative energies flow as we painted a ceramic Titah Frock statue while learning about its history.

“Titah” is what children say when they can’t pronounce sister. “Frock” is an older word for a dress. The dresses are practical. Women sewing for wealthier households used leftover fabric scraps to make their own garments. What began as a necessity became an identity. Women created something beautiful from leftovers. The patchwork and floral prints still represent St. Maarten’s colourful wear today.

Travel writer, Wendy Nordvik-Carr, paints a Titah Frock figurine. Photo: Stephanie Carr©

Titah Frock figurines on display and for sale to raise funds to support artists and the culture of Sint Maarten. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©

Lunch on the French Side of the Island in Marigot at Cool Heure

Crossing from Dutch Philipsburg to French Marigot takes minutes—no border check—but you encounter two distinct cultures on this small island. The signs also change to reflect the difference between the countries.

In Marigot, the French influence is evident in its New Orleans-style architecture, cafés and markets.

Werner pulled off the road, stopping at a spot easily overlooked. Cool Heure, set back from the roadside, is a small, open-air restaurant that feels like a local bistro.

Inside, a chalkboard by the tables lists the daily menu depending on what’s fresh and what Chef Betty wants to cook.

Creole, Caribbean and classic French dishes appear side by side. You might see snapper or prawns, duck confit, quiche or a simple plate from the morning’s catch.

Meals are generous and straightforward, easily paired with French wine. We sat. We ate. Conversations carried on. Plates cleared. In true French style, no one hurried to leave.

Classics of French cuisine served at Cool Heure, a prawn dish. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©

Classics of French cuisine served at Cool Heure, steak with mushrooms and red snapper. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©

Guavaberry and Seasonal Traditions

At Colombier Traditions, the story of guavaberry is celebrated and is part of everyday life. The fruit is native to Saint Martin, other parts of the Caribbean and South America. The berry is small and has two colours: red and yellow. It is tart and sweet at the same time, with a cranberry and citrus flavour.

While we enjoyed a tasting, the owner of Colombier Tradition explained that the guavaberry is harvested in October, November and December. They then use the berries to make liqueurs, hot sauces, syrups, and jams. To make liqueurs, the berry undergoes maceration, meaning it is soaked in rum to soften and break down for at least one, two, or seven years to develop its unique flavour.

Each maker on the island uses various methods and recipes that have been adapted over generations, some adding their own special concoction of sharp spices like cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg. Local chefs find creative ways to incorporate the berry into dishes, sauces, and desserts.

What matters is not just how it’s made, but when it’s shared. Guavaberry is traditionally associated with Christmas in St. Maarten and is enjoyed at gatherings served in festive desserts like guavaberry tart, as well as in cocktails.

When we left, we purchased a sampler pack to bring a taste of Sint Maarten home for family and friends.

The guavaberry has two colours: red and yellow. Although we thought it looked more orange.  The owner of Colombier Tradition holds a bottle of guavaberry liqueur. Photo: Stephanie Carr©

Mangrove Restoration at Saint Martin Nature Reserve and Why It Matters

We explored the unique nature of one of the 14 ponds of the Saint Martin Nature Reserve, where the work to restore the island’s wetlands is ongoing.

After the damage caused by Hurricane Irma in 2017, a mangrove nursery was established to help rebuild what was lost. White mangrove seedlings are now grown and replanted each year, slowly restoring this fragile ecosystem.

We stopped at the nursery to select two saplings to plant. Then we headed towards the salt pond.

Werner explained the need for mangrove restoration to rebuild a natural barrier that protects the island, and how crucial these trees are for supporting biodiversity and the environment. Mangroves filter water and create habitat for marine life.

We planted the two mangroves along the pond’s edge, making a small contribution towards the restoration. As we looked around, we spotted young mangroves at different stages of growth, some newly planted, others beginning to take hold. Werner broke off a leaf from a more mature black mangrove tree and asked us to lick the leaf. You could taste the salt immediately. The salt wasn’t from the air; it came from the nutrients the tree carries through its system from the soil.

He then pointed out small, round sand clusters called crab balls, made when Fiddler crabs sift sediment for nutrients. Once you notice them, they’re everywhere.

Afterward, Werner opened the trunk of his car and poured an iced tea he had made with lemongrass and cinnamon bay leaf. He called it, “Bush Water”. A simple, refreshing medicinal tea is used in the Caribbean to cure headaches. In Jamaica, they use this concoction to help with hangovers.

As we drank the tea, we stood there, looking out over the salt pond, listening to the songbirds. As we left, a female Mangrove Yellow Warbler hopped onto the mirror of the car.

Planting a mangrove won’t change the island in a day, but the act connects you personally to the island’s ongoing conservation.

Stephanie Carr carefully plants a white mangrove tree to become part of the mangrove restoration efforts at Saint Martin Nature Reserve. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©

Our guide, Werner, explains the flora and fauna of the Saint Martin Nature Reserve. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©

Mangrove restoration signs of growth at Saint Martin Nature Reserve. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©

Werner opened the trunk of his car and poured an iced tea he had made with lemongrass and cinnamon bay leaf. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©

A glass of “Bush Water,” an iced tea mixture Werner made with lemongrass and cinnamon bay leaf. A curious female Mangrove Yellow Warbler. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©

Rotary Lookout Point

Our final stop before returning to the pier was at the Rotary Lookout Point, where we climbed the observation platform for stunning views of the coastline, a last look before heading back to the Star Clipper Tall Ship.
On the Dutch side at the cruise port in Philipsburg, the iconic “I Love Sint Maarten” sign draws visitors in for photos. It’s worth a quick stop, but don’t let it be the highlight of your day.

View from Rotary Lookout Point, Sint Maarten. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©

View from Rotary Lookout Point, Sint Maarten. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©

In Philipsburg, St. Maarten, the iconic “I Love Sint Maarten” sign is a popular photo spot near the cruise port. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©

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Wendy Nordvik-Carr and her daughter, Stephanie, were guests of Visit St. Maarten, which did not review this story.