Fontaine-de-Vaucluse, Provence, is one of those rare places that still feels untouched by modernization. I travelled there in late autumn, when the last leaves were turning and the air had taken on that soft chill. From Avignon, it’s less than an hour’s drive through vineyards and silvery olive groves. It was our last tour stop on our all-day adventure, before boarding our luxury Riverside Ravel river cruise on the Rhône the next day.
By the time we arrived, the village had fallen quiet. The cafés were mostly closed, their patio chairs stacked against the walls and the only sound was the rush of water echoing between limestone cliffs. The emerald-green, crystal-clear waters of the Sorgue River winds through the centre of the village.
The Mysterious Source of the Sorgue
At the base of the cliffs lies the spring that gives Fontaine-de-Vaucluse its name. The water emerges from a vast underground system fed by rainfall and snowmelt filtering through the mountains. It’s one of Europe’s most powerful natural springs, and its depth is still unknown.
A pathway leads to the chasm-viewing area, where the spring feeds the river. At the moment, access is restricted due to rockfall danger.
In the 1950s, Jacques-Yves Cousteau attempted to explore it in a submersible but never reached the bottom. Later, a probe descended 308 metres (1,010 feet) to a sandy floor, yet scientists agree the source lies deeper.
A Poet’s Refuge and a Castle in the Clouds
The story of Fontaine-de-Vaucluse is bound to the poet Francesco Petrarch, who found solace here in the 14th century. He often visited his friend Philippe de Cabassole, Bishop of Cavaillon, at the castle perched high above the village.
Built around 1030, the fortress was already mentioned in a 1034 deed, though the ruins seen today date from the early 13th century. Climbing the path to the top rewards visitors with sweeping views of the valley, the river and the surrounding hills.
Cavaillon Castle at Fontaine-de-Vaucluse, Provence, France. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Cavaillon Castle at Fontaine-de-Vaucluse, Provence, France. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
A Church from Another Millennium
Below the castle stands the Notre-Dame-et-Saint-Véran, a Romanesque stone church that has watched over the valley for nearly a thousand years. Built in the early 11th century, it shares its age with the fortress and the earliest days of the village itself. We didn’t have time to visit, but I paused to take in its simple beauty from the road, its weathered bell tower rising above the trees.
Papermaking at Vallis Clausa
Downstream, the steady rhythm of water draws you to Vallis Clausa, a faithful reconstruction of a medieval paper mill. A sign tells its story:
“This is a reconstruction of a paper mill like those that existed in France at the end of the Middle Ages. In Provence and the Comtat Venaissin, the first ‘beaters’ appeared around 1374. The first paper mill in Fontaine-de-Vaucluse was built in 1522 at Le Martinet. Four others followed, including ‘Chemin de la Fontaine,’ built in 1862 and operating until 1968.”
Inside, an artisan worked in silence. Over and over, he repeated the whole paper-making process slowly and methodically, stirring the pulp, dipping the wooden frame, lifting a trembling sheet, pressing it flat, layering, then beginning again. Watching him, I understood how this tradition had survived: through the dedication of the craft.
As you exit the museum, you’ll find an array of paper goods, as well as a good selection of children’s books.
Papermaking at Vallis Clausa in Fontaine-de-Vaucluse. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Papermaking at Vallis Clausa in Fontaine-de-Vaucluse. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Papermaking at Vallis Clausa in Fontaine-de-Vaucluse. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Discover more about France in our ongoing series, including our luxury Riverside river cruise through some of the area’s most storied landscapes.
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About the Author:
Wendy Nordvik-Carr is a highly regarded travel writer who produces quality, well-researched articles with stunning photography and video.
She seeks out authentic experiences showcasing the people, culture and history that make each destination unique. Her focus is on solo, couple and multigenerational travel through cruising, air and road trip adventures.
Wendy is the editor & writer for LifesIncredibleJourney.com, an award-winning travel site that encourages exploration of destinations near & far.
She is a TMAC Director, Chair, National Governance Committee and Chair of TMAC's BC & Yukon Chapter, as well as a member of SATW, IFWTWA and NATJA.
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