If you’re up for a true adventure, head to Labrador’s Trans-Labrador Highway, one of North America’s most remote and breathtaking road trips.
Driving into Labrador feels like entering another world. Along this stretch of the Trans-Labrador Highway, the road follows the windswept shoreline of the Strait of Belle Isle. Seabirds circle above rocky headlands, and small coastal communities sit quietly beside the North Atlantic. The route leads to Red Bay National Historic Site, once one of the world’s most important Basque whaling centres. It also leads to L’Anse Amour National Historic Site of Canada, home to a 7,500-year-old burial mound—one of the oldest known burial sites in North America—as well as Point Amour Lighthouse, one of the tallest in Atlantic Canada, rising above this dramatic coastline.
This journey forms the Labrador portion of a six-day road trip through Western Newfoundland and Labrador, connecting remote coastal landscapes with stories that stretch back thousands of years. Each day builds on the last—beginning in anticipation, deepening into awe as the scenery unfolds, and ending in quiet reflection on the people and histories that have shaped this wild coastline.
Stunning sunset along the scenic Labrador’s Trans-Labrador Highway, one of Canada’s most beautiful drives. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Stunning views along Labrador’s Trans-Labrador Highway. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carrr©
Planning the Drive Along the Southern Labrador Coast
Practical Road Tips – At a Glance:
Despite its remote feel, this stretch of Labrador’s coastline is one of the most rewarding drives in Atlantic Canada, combining dramatic ocean scenery with layers of history spanning thousands of years
- Distance: The drive from Blanc-Sablon to Red Bay takes about 80 minutes without stops, but you’ll want to allow extra time to take in the historic sites and viewpoints along the way.
- Fuel: Fill your tank before departing, as services are limited between communities. Fuel is available in some nearby towns, but stations can be spaced farther apart than you might expect.
- Wildlife: Moose and other wildlife are commonly seen along the highway. Stay alert, especially during early morning and evening hours when animals are most active.
- Essentials: Plan ahead for food, drinks, and any necessities before you set out, as services along this route can be sparse and distances between stops longer than anticipated.
- Time Zone Change: Remember that Quebec is in a different time zone from Newfoundland and Labrador.
- Accommodations: Be sure to reserve.
- Book tours or interpretive hikes in advance to avoid disappointment.
A Coastline Alive With Seabirds at the Brador Bay Migratory Bird Sanctuary
Head south after getting off the ferry. The highway follows a rugged stretch of coastline that supports rich marine life and important bird habitats. Go to nearby Brador Bay Migratory Bird Sanctuary, established to protect seabirds that nest and feed along this section of coast. Puffins, murres, razorbills and eiders are often seen riding the Atlantic winds above the rocky shoreline.
The Atlantic Puffin population at this location has declined from 60,000 to around 20,000 over the years, but it remains the largest colony in Quebec.
For birdwatchers and photographers, even a brief stop along this coastline can reveal remarkable wildlife activity. We even spotted an iceberg drifting just off the coast.
(Traveller’s Tip: North America’s largest Atlantic Puffin colony is found in Newfoundland and Labrador at the Witless Bay Ecological Reserve, located 30 minutes south of St. John’s.
Four islands make up the reserve: Pee Pee, Great, Gull and Green. During the late spring and summer (April 1-September 1), more than 260,000 pairs of Puffins come to breed, nest and raise their chicks, called pufflings. Puffins lay one egg, and the incubation period lasts about six weeks, the same time it takes to grow full-size, leave the nest, and fly out to the sea.
When not breeding, these seabirds spend the remainder of the year in the open ocean. Listen to the sound of a Puffin. The Puffins also share this area with more than 620,000 pairs of very vocal Leach’s storm petrel, the world’s second-largest colony. Listen to their calls.)
The largest Atlantic Puffin colony in Quebec is at the Brador Bay Migratory Bird Sanctuary. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
An iceberg spotted off the coast of the Trans-Labrador Highway near the Brador Bay Migratory Bird Sanctuary. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Welcome to the Big Land
Just minutes after leaving the ferry terminal, travellers encounter a large roadside sign welcoming visitors to Labrador — “The Big Land.”
It’s a popular place to stop for photos and marks the beginning of the Labrador portion of the journey. The nickname fits perfectly. Labrador’s landscapes feel vast and untamed, with powerful winds sweeping across rocky shorelines and fishing communities scattered along the coast.
Standing beside the sign with the wind blowing off the Strait of Belle Isle, it truly feels like stepping into one of Canada’s last great wilderness regions.
Travel writer, Wendy Nordvik-Carr, stands in front of the Welcome to the Big Land sign on the Quebec-Newfoundland Labrador border. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Gateway to Labrador Visitor Centre
A short drive north brings travellers to the Gateway to Labrador Visitor Centre, an ideal place to pause and learn more about the region.
The centre provides maps, exhibits, and helpful information about Labrador’s geography, communities, and history. It’s also a good place to ask about wildlife sightings, road conditions, and local attractions along the southern Labrador coast.
For first-time visitors, the centre offers valuable context before continuing toward Red Bay.
The Gateway to Labrador Visitor Centre is housed in a small church. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
How Labrador Got Its Name
The name Labrador traces back to Portuguese exploration in the late fifteenth century.
Explorer João Fernandes Lavrador, whose surname means “landholder” or “farmer,” sailed along this coastline during early voyages across the North Atlantic. His name appeared on early maps and eventually became associated with the mainland coast we know today as Labrador.
Interestingly, early cartographers once mistakenly used the name Labrador for Greenland. Over time, the error was corrected, but the name remained firmly linked to this rugged northern shoreline.
Part of the Western Newfoundland & Labrador Road Trip Series
This story is part of my six-day road trip through Western Newfoundland and Labrador, exploring dramatic coastlines, UNESCO World Heritage Sites, and the legendary Viking Trail.
In this series:
• The complete Western Newfoundland and Labrador road trip itinerary
• Driving the Trans-Labrador Highway to Red Bay
• Visiting L’Anse aux Meadows Viking settlement
• Exploring Iceberg Alley and northern Newfoundland
• Discovering Gros Morne National Park and Western Brook Pond
Each article follows the journey step-by-step along one of Canada’s most remarkable road trips.
Labrador Coastal Drive sign at the Gateway to Labrador Visitor Centre. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Red Bay National Historic Site
Since at least the 11th century, Basque whalers and cod fishermen from the Pyrenees region of Spain and France have commercially hunted whales in the waters surrounding their countries. It was not until around 1530 that they seasonally ventured further on a month-long journey across the North Atlantic Ocean, some 4000 km to the Strait of Belle Isle.
They hit the motherlode, finding large numbers of right and bowhead whales. From this time until the early 1600s, Red Bay and the southern Labrador coast became steeped in Basque whaling traditions. In fact, Red Bay is North America’s largest known Basque whaling station and, at one point, had as many as 1,000 living here during the summer season.
Whale oil, a highly coveted and rare commodity in medieval Europe, was used for a variety of purposes. It was a key ingredient in soap production, a component in pharmaceutical products, perfumes, and treatment materials and prized for its ability to burn brighter than vegetable oil.
Nowhere else in the world will you find a more complete example of early industrial-scale whaling than at Red Bay, which was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2013. Visit the interpretation centre and Saddle Island to relive the Basque whaling tradition through a remarkable collection of original artifacts, archaeological remains, videos, models and guided tours.
Visit the restored 16th-century Basque chalupa, the oldest known whaling boat in the world. I was drawn to its craftsmanship and couldn’t help comparing it to the boatbuilding expertise I had seen in Norway. Though built for different purposes, both traditions showcased exceptional skill and resilience. The chalupa—small, sturdy, and engineered for harsh North Atlantic conditions—symbolizes the enduring relationship between humans and the sea. Standing in Red Bay, I could almost hear the creak of wooden hulls and the call of sailors long gone.
Will we ever know the full story of why this chalupa sank more than 400 years in the frigid waters of Red Bay, Labrador?
A Parks Canada Guide at Red Bay National Historic Site Museum explains the archaeological findings. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
16th-century Basque whaling boat, Red Bay National Historic Site. Photo: Wendy Norvdik-Carr©
Inside the Red Bay Interpretation Centre
The Red Bay Interpretation Centre reveals this remarkable history through archaeological discoveries, artifacts and exhibits recovered from the harbour. Among the most fascinating pieces is the restored 16th-century Basque chalupa. This small wooden whaling boat is believed to be the oldest known whaling vessel in North America.
Nearby displays include whalebone collections and artifacts recovered from sunken ships, including the Basque vessel San Juan, which sank in Red Bay in the sixteenth century.
Standing beside the chalupa, it is impossible not to admire the craftsmanship and resilience of the sailors who once crossed the North Atlantic to hunt whales along this remote coastline.
16th-century Basque whaling boat, Red Bay National Historic Site. Photo: Wendy Norvdik-Carr©
The Right Whale Exhibit Museum
A newer addition in Red Bay is the Right Whale Exhibit Museum, which helps visitors better understand why these enormous animals drew Basque whalers across the Atlantic in the 1500s.
Right whales were considered the “right” whales to hunt because they swam slowly, stayed close to shore and floated after being killed, making them easier to harvest and process. Through exhibits and historical interpretation, the small museum provides further insight into the scale of the early whaling industry that once operated in the waters of the Strait of Belle Isle, as well as into the local community.
The Red Bay Right Whale Exhibit. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Exploring Saddle Island and Boney Shore
Guided tours also take visitors to Saddle Island and Boney Shore, where archaeological remains reveal the scale of the Basque whaling operations.
Foundations of rendering ovens, cooperages, and other structures still mark the shoreline. This is where whale blubber was once processed into oil before being shipped back to Europe.
Walking along these windswept shores today, it is easy to imagine a harbour filled with wooden sailing ships and crews working tirelessly along the coast.
Heading off to explore Saddle Island. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Exploring Saddle Island. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
The community of Red Bay in Labrador. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Lunch at Whaler’s Restaurant
After exploring the historic site, lunch at Whaler’s Restaurant is a must.
Inside, the restaurant feels almost like a small museum. Whale bones, carvings, and traditional artifacts decorate the interior. Many are connected to the history of Dr. Wilfred Grenfell and the Red Bay Co-op.
During my visit, I met the friendly twin sisters working there that day, who shared stories about life in this small Labrador community.
The restaurant is famous for its Chalupa Fish and Chips, named after the historic Basque whaling boat on display at the interpretation centre.
Daily specials often feature local favourites. Desserts are homemade using wild berries such as bakeapples, partridgeberries, and blackberries.
For travellers planning hikes or picnics, boxed lunches can be ordered in advance to ensure you have meals during your outing.
Friendly twin sisters at the Whaler’s Restaurant in Red Bay, Labrador. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Famous Chalupa Fish and Chips served at the Whaler’s Restaurant in Red Bay National Historic Site. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
L’Anse Amour National Historic Site of Canada
A short drive away lies L’Anse Amour National Historic Site of Canada, home to one of the oldest known burial sites in North America.
In 1974, archaeologists uncovered a burial mound containing the remains of a Maritime Archaic child dating back approximately 7,500 years.
The child had been carefully buried beneath a mound of earth and stone overlooking the Strait of Belle Isle. Tools and other artifacts were placed nearby. The remains were covered with layers of red ochre, used in ceremonial burials.
Standing at this quiet site overlooking the open Atlantic offers a powerful reminder that people have travelled these shores for thousands of years.
L’Anse Amour National Historic Site of Canada is home to one of the oldest known burial sites in North America. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Point Amour Lighthouse
Nearby stands Point Amour Lighthouse, rising dramatically above the Labrador coastline.
At 109 feet tall, it is one of the tallest lighthouses in Atlantic Canada and the second tallest in the country.
Visitors can climb the 132 steps to the top for sweeping views across the Strait of Belle Isle toward Newfoundland.
The windswept landscape surrounding the lighthouse reflects the powerful forces of nature that have shaped this rugged coast for centuries.
The Point Amour Lighthouse in L’Anse Amour, Newfoundland and Labrador. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Viewing platform at the Point Amour Lighthouse in L’Anse Amour, Newfoundland and Labrador. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Whalers Quest Ocean Adventures
To experience the coastline from the water, visitors can join Whalers Quest Ocean Adventures, which offers customized boat tours around Red Bay.
These tours combine storytelling, music and coastal exploration while connecting visitors with the region’s Indigenous and European heritage and the traditions of the local fishery.
From the water, the dramatic cliffs and quiet coves of the Labrador coast reveal a perspective that has changed little since the days of Basque whalers.
Because the weather in this area changes so quickly, tour times are adjusted accordingly.
Getting ready to board, Perfect Timing for a tour with Whaler’s Quest Ocean Adventures. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Learning about the fishing industry on Perfect Timing during a tour with Whaler’s Quest Ocean Adventures. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Views along the shores of Labrador while on Perfect Timing during a tour with Whalers Quest Ocean Adventures. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
World-Class River Fishing in Southern Labrador
The rivers flowing into the Strait of Belle Isle also make this region one of Atlantic Canada’s most respected destinations for anglers. Labrador’s cold, clear waterways are known for Atlantic salmon and brook trout fishing, drawing experienced fly fishers from around the world.
Several pristine rivers wind through this coastal landscape, and during the summer months, anglers can often be seen casting lines in the rushing currents.
Even for those who don’t fish, it’s easy to appreciate the appeal. These rivers cut through quiet wilderness landscapes where the only sounds are rushing water, seabirds overhead and the occasional splash of a jumping salmon.
Rivers for the perfect fishing experience along the Southern Labrador Coast. This is the Pinware River. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Rivers for the perfect fishing experience along the Southern Labrador Coast. Fish for Atlantic Salmon, Sea-Run Brook Trout, Speckled Trout, and Arctic Char. This photo is West St. Modeste. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
The Warm Hospitality of Coastal Labrador
One of the most memorable parts of travelling through Newfoundland and Labrador is the warmth of the people.
Small coastal communities welcome visitors with genuine hospitality and a sense of humour that quickly turns strangers into friends.
The cultural heritage reflects a blend of English, Irish, French and Indigenous traditions, and the local dialect includes colourful expressions unique to the region.
You might hear someone say:
“Like a fart in a mitten” — something that doesn’t quite fit.
Or
“I die at you” — meaning you’re really funny.
It’s all part of the charm of travelling through this remarkable corner of Atlantic Canada.
Labrador Marine Ferry terminal is waiting to cross the Strait of Belle Isle. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Crossing Back to Newfoundland
As our adventure to Labrador draws to a close, the journey returns to the ferry terminal at Blanc-Sablon.
The Labrador Marine Ferry crosses the Strait of Belle Isle once again, carrying travellers back to St. Barbe, Newfoundland, where the road trip continues along the legendary Viking Trail.
Ahead lies the northern tip of Newfoundland and one of the most extraordinary archaeological discoveries in North America — L’Anse aux Meadows, where Norse explorers reached this coastline more than a thousand years ago.
The journey continues.
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Wendy Nordvik-Carr was a guest of Newfoundland and Labrador, which did not review this story.
About the Author:
Wendy Nordvik-Carr is a highly regarded travel writer who produces quality, well-researched articles with stunning photography and video.
She seeks out authentic experiences showcasing the people, culture and history that make each destination unique. Her focus is on solo, couple and multigenerational travel through cruising, air and road trip adventures.
Wendy is the editor & writer for LifesIncredibleJourney.com, an award-winning travel site that encourages exploration of destinations near & far.
She is a TMAC Director, Chair, National Governance Committee and Chair of TMAC's BC & Yukon Chapter, as well as a member of SATW, IFWTWA and NATJA.
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