Experience the magic of Derry Halloween, where haunted castles, ghost stories and ancient Celtic folklore come alive in Northern Ireland.
Where did Halloween originate?
Did you know Halloween originated in Ireland more than 2,000 years ago? The Celtic festival of Samhain marked the end of harvest and the start of winter, when the veil between the living and the dead grew thin.
That ancient energy still lingers in Northern Ireland, where bonfires once guided wandering spirits home. Today, no city celebrates that legacy more vibrantly than Derry, host of Europe’s largest Halloween festival.
Before I reached the walled city glowing with lanterns, my journey (which started in Belfast) wound through haunted castles, witch-trial legends and fireside storytelling that revealed how deeply myth still shapes this land.
Carrickfergus Castle
Outside, the massive stone walls of Carrickfergus Castle loomed over Belfast Lough. Built by the Normans in the 12th century, it has withstood sieges by Scots, Irish, English, and French troops. Cannons still guard its battlements, silent witnesses to centuries of turmoil and the ghosts said to haunt its dungeons.
Look closely at my photo below to see the ghostly images taken during the day, one with normal exposure, the other with 3D. Personally, I have seen several ghosts, mostly in my childhood home, and they all looked similar, or maybe it was just my imagination.
The Halloween display was an impressively set table in the great hall.
Paranormal activity was recorded at Carrickfergus Castle, one of the best-preserved medieval structures in Ireland. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Ghostly feast at Carrickfergus Castle, one of the best-preserved medieval structures in Ireland. Travel writer Wendy Nordvik-Carr makes a toast to the group of spirited diners. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Ghostly tales at Carrickfergus Castle, one of the best-preserved medieval structures in Ireland. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Ghostly tales at Carrickfergus Castle, one of the best-preserved medieval structures in Ireland. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Ghostly tales at Carrickfergus Castle, one of the best-preserved medieval structures in Ireland. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
The Witches of Islandmagee — Ireland’s Fascinating Witch Trial
My adventure began in Carrickfergus, at a haunting performance inside the Carrickfergus Museum and Civic Centre, where the 1711 Islandmagee Witch Trial, Ireland’s last, was brought to life.
Storyteller Vicky McFarland and musician Lee McFarland wove sound, light, and voice around historian Andrew Sneddon’s meticulous research. Unlike England or Scotland, where tens of thousands of so-called witches were condemned, Ireland saw few trials. Here, people already believed in fairies, spirits, and the otherworld, forces too powerful and familiar to be feared.
Take time to read actual accounts of these dramatic times below.
Storyteller Vicky McFarland and musician Lee McFarland inside the Carrickfergus Museum and Civic Centre. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
The Witches of Islandmagee, Ireland’s Final Witch Trial. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
The Witches of Islandmagee, Ireland’s Final Witch Trial. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
A Haunted Night at Ballygally Castle Hotel
That evening, I checked into Ballygally Castle Hotel, a 17th-century fortress on the Antrim Coast that’s famous for its resident ghost, Lady Isabella Shaw.
Near midnight, I climbed the narrow spiral staircase to the tower’s Ghost Room. Each step creaked. The air turned cold. I hesitated before pushing open the heavy wooden door.
They say Lady Shaw was locked in this tower by her jealous husband and died searching for her child. Standing there alone, candlelight flickering against the stone, I felt a presence. There was a slight temperature drop and a subtle breeze errily grazed me. Was it Lady Shaw making her presence known? I felt the need to whisper, “I’m sorry this tragedy happened to you,” as I hastened back down the narrow stairway to escape my fear.
Whether you believe in ghosts or not, Ballygally’s walls hold their own kind of memory, the kind that lingers long after you’ve left.
Ballygally Castle, built in 1625, is celebrating its 400th year and is one of the top 25 hotels in the UK.
A Haunted Night at Ballygally Castle Hotel
A Haunted Night at Ballygally Castle Hotel. The narrow spiral staircase to the tower’s Ghost Room and the view of the tower. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
The ghost room where Lady Shaw was imprisoned by her husband. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
The pumpkin display in the lobby of Ballygally Castle Hotel. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Ghost Stories and the First Jack-o’-Lantern
In Cushendall, master storyteller Liz Weir welcomed me to Ballyeamon Barn to experience “real Northern Ireland”, where she has spent decades preserving Ireland’s oral tradition.
Together with fellow storyteller Stephan O’Hara, they told tales of haunted roads, fairy rings, and Stingy Jack, the drunkard who tricked the Devil and was cursed to wander the earth carrying a burning ember in a carved turnip.
That gruesome image birthed the world’s first Jack-o’-lantern in the early 1600s. Long before pumpkins arrived from America, the Irish hollowed out turnips to keep evil at bay. The tradition still flickers in modern Halloween lights.
Irish storyteller Liz Weir and fellow storyteller Stephan O’Hara told spooky tales at Ballyeamon Barn. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Storyteller Liz Weir with Jane Rea, who demonstrated carving turnips. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Fairies, Hawthorn Trees and the Tuatha Dé Danann
Ireland’s myths tell of the Tuatha Dé Danann, “the People of the Goddess Danu,” who arrived in ships from the sky and burned them so they could never leave. Many believe they became the fairies who guard sacred mounds and hawthorn trees, portals to another world.
Even today, roads are rerouted to spare these trees, lest bad luck follow. It’s a reminder that here, myth and everyday life are never far apart.
I can still envision the banshee screams piercing the night air above Derry’s ancient walls, a haunting reminder that in Northern Ireland, the spirits never really sleep.
Make Classic Halloween Treats at the Bake House NI
About 40 minutes down the road, baker Bronagh Duffin invited us into her warm kitchen at Bake House NI to make classic Halloween treats: apple tart with Armagh Bramley apples, Barmbrack fruit loaf with hidden charms, and Purdy Pudding, a comforting mix of potatoes and apples.
As the scent of cinnamon and butter filled the air, Bronagh explained the meanings baked inside the Brambrack: a ring for marriage, a coin for luck, a rag for hardship. Every recipe carried a superstition and a story.
Bronagh Duffin teaches us how to make Barmbrack in her Bakehouse NI kitchen. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Derry Halloween Festival
By late afternoon, I arrived in Derry-Londonderry, the city known for holding the largest Halloween Festival in Europe. I checked into the elegant Ebrington Hotel, its windows overlooking the graceful curve of the Peace Bridge.
Local guide Charlene McCrossan met us for their award-winning Spooky Tour of Derry, sharing tales of hidden tunnels, ancient graveyards, and the chilling cries of banshees said to haunt the city’s 17th-century walls.
At twilight, I joined the Awakening the Walled City Trail. The city was filled with fire dancers, skeletal performers, and mythical spirits. I was completely in awe as every corner revealed another echo of the past, another flicker of folklore brought to life.
Standing high atop the ramparts, lanterns swaying in the wind, I could almost envision the banshees’ screams piercing the night air, their cries carried over the River Foyle. Imagined or not, the sound sent a shiver down my spine.
The Peace Bridge crosses the River Foyle. Built in 2011, the pedestrian suspension bridge connects Ebrington Square to the city centre in Derry-Londonderry, near the Guild Hall. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
The Walled City of Derry-Londonderry. These walls have stood for more than 400 years. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
One of the best things to do for Halloween is to visit Derry during the Halloween Festival. Halloween characters in front of Derry’s Guild Hall. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
One of the many stunning light shows during the four-day Halloween Festival in Derry. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
A witch is brewing some magic at the top of the wall overlooking the city as part of the four-day Derry Halloween Festival. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
The magical procession in front of the Ebrington Hotel around Ebrington Square. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Halloween Night – Parade and Fireworks Finale
On October 31, Derry completely transformed. I went into the night dressed as the Dragon Queen from Game of Thrones. The Carnival Parade filled the streets with drums, dancers, with a thrilling spectacle of illuminations, aerial performance, pyrotechnics and costumed revellers, leading to a brilliant Fireworks Finale over the Foyle.
From the viewing area near the bridge, I watched the sky erupt in orange, purple, and silver. The city was aglow in celebration. I was surprised by how family-friendly this spectacular event is.
One of the best things to do for Halloween is to visit the Derry Halloween Festival. Travel writer Wendy Nordvik-Carr dressed as the Dragon Queen from Game of Thrones. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
Derry Halloween Festival fireworks. Photo: Tourism Ireland, Courtesy of Derry City & Strabane District Council©
Where to stay in Derry-Londonderry
Ebrington Hotel
I stayed at the luxurious 4-star Ebrington Hotel and Spa, located in the heart of Ebrington Square. Formally a historic military barracks, the building dates back to 1842. Beautifully restored, it is one of the city’s most elegant boutique hotels.
Just steps from the Peace Bridge and a short stroll from Guildhall Square, the hotel is ideally positioned for Derry’s biggest Halloween events, including the Awakening the Walled City Trail, storytelling performances and the famous parade.
After a full day exploring ghost tours, parades and light shows, my room was the perfect retreat. The rooftop bar is an ideal place to relax with a cocktail as the Halloween fireworks burst across the night sky above the River Foyle.
The staff go above and beyond in their personal attentive service. The restaurant’s kitchen kindly rewrapped my Brambrack loaf tightly so it would last until I could bring back a taste of Ireland to my family.
My comfortable room at the Ebrington Hotel. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©
How to get to Derry
Reaching Derry-Londonderry for the Halloween Festival is pretty straightforward, with multiple scenic and convenient routes from across the UK and Ireland.
As part of the Common Travel Area, Northern Ireland has no border controls or travel restrictions for British travellers. For Canadians, Americans and other travellers, a valid passport is needed with an Electronic Travel Authorization attached. For additional travel planning resources, visit Ireland.com
- By Air – You can fly directly into the City of Derry Airport from select UK airports, including London Stansted, Liverpool, and Glasgow. Alternatively, Belfast International Airport and Belfast City Airport offer frequent connections from major cities such as London, Manchester, and Birmingham. The scenic 90-minute drive or bus journey from Belfast to Derry is regularly available throughout the day. If you’re coming from parts of Canada or the US, there are several direct flights to Dublin with Aer Lingus. When my daughter recently visited Ireland, she flew Iceland Air. This route allowed a free stopover in Iceland.
- By Ferry and Car – The Irish Ferries or Stena Line Ferries into Dublin. From Dublin, it’s a three-hour drive north through the rolling countryside to Derry.
- By Train or Bus – Take the bus directly from Dublin to Derry. Trains and buses connect Belfast to Derry in just under two hours.
Whether you fly, sail, or take the scenic rail route, getting to Derry is easy.
Looking for more ways to explore Northern Ireland? Check out my complete series on Ireland for places to stay, things to do, and where to eat. Here are two: Belfast Travel Guide, A Taste of Northern Ireland: Where to Eat, Sip, and Savour Along the Causeway Coast
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Travel Writer Wendy Nordvik-Carr participated in a press trip hosted by Discover Northern Ireland, which did not review or approve of this article before it was published.
About the Author:
Wendy Nordvik-Carr is a highly regarded travel writer who produces quality, well-researched articles with stunning photography and video.
She seeks out authentic experiences showcasing the people, culture and history that make each destination unique. Her focus is on solo, couple and multigenerational travel through cruising, air and road trip adventures.
Wendy is the editor & writer for LifesIncredibleJourney.com, an award-winning travel site that encourages exploration of destinations near & far.
She is a TMAC Director, Chair, National Governance Committee and Chair of TMAC's BC & Yukon Chapter, as well as a member of SATW, IFWTWA and NATJA.
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