48 Hours in Avignon, France: A Provence Travel Guide

We arrived in Avignon, France, a few days before embarking on our luxury Riverside Cruises Ravel voyage, choosing to slow down rather than rush on our mother-daughter adventure. The high-speed train from Paris’ Charles de Gaulle airport carried us south in a little over three hours, gliding through rolling farmland and olive groves before easing into Avignon, the medieval “City of Popes.” Our plan was simple: to explore slowly, taste and let Provence unfold at its own rhythm.

Avignon was our first stop in France and what a perfect beginning it turned out to be.

How to get to Avignon, the City of Popes

Our journey south began aboard the TGV high-speed train, with my daughter confidently leading the way through the maze of signs and platforms. Once aboard, we finally relaxed. The hum of the train and the rhythmic click of the tracks offered the perfect moment to unwind after a long flight.

Through the expansive windows, the French countryside revealed itself: golden fields, stone farmhouses and distant church steeples catching the last rays of light. As the sun dipped low, streaks of rose and amber swept across the sky. I didn’t take many photos; the windows were overdue for a cleaning.

When we arrived at the Avignon TGV station, we had two options for getting to our hotel: taking the local train into Avignon or taking a taxi. It was late, so we chose to grab a cab. The idea of being whisked straight to our hotel sounded far more appealing. Within minutes, we reached the Avignon Grand Hotel, perfectly positioned beside the medieval city walls and just steps from one of its main gates. And as it turned out, beside the local train station.

At check-in, a welcome cocktail awaited, a small but thoughtful touch that set the tone for our stay. After dropping our bags, we ventured out for a short stroll. In the dark, the ramparts glowed under soft illumination. It was a gentle introduction to Provence and the promise of the days to come.

Insider Tip: We soon found out you should avoid arriving in Avignon on a Monday. Many places are closed, like restaurants, museums and shops, but we found enough open to make it work.

Why Avignon Is Called the Walled City

Avignon earned its title as “the walled city” for good reason. When the popes moved their seat from Rome to Avignon in the 14th century, they built nearly five kilometres of stone ramparts to protect their palaces, clergy, and treasures. These massive walls also served another purpose: tax collection and trade control.

Every merchant entering Avignon passed through one of seven gates, paying tolls on their goods. The walls kept invaders out and commerce in, making Avignon both a fortress and a thriving economic hub.

Today, those same ramparts still embrace the old town. You can trace them on foot, running your hand along the weathered stone, feeling the centuries that have shaped this city on the Rhône. The only access to the top of the walls is from the Pont d’Avignon.

Avignon City Pass

We picked up a 24-hour Avignon City Pass, which gave us access to the city’s major attractions and museums at a reduced cost. Our pass did not include the Little Train of Avignon.

Day 2 – Exploring Avignon’s Walled City

After breakfast at the hotel, we set out to explore the Walled City. Our day started at the Visitor Centre to check the available tours for the next day and to get their recommendations for must-see sites and where to eat.

Wander the Streets of Avignon

We spent the day exploring inside the ramparts of Avignon, winding our way through the city’s narrow passageways and squares, popping into boutiques and fun shops filled with artisan crafts and gourmet treats, sampling all sorts of marvellous tastes of Provence. No lavender scent lingered in the air this late in the season, but the charm was undeniable.

We found lovely boutiques tucked into narrow side streets, each one brimming with Provençal style. Both of us added a few treasures to our wardrobes, pieces that will always remind me of that first afternoon exploring together.

Be sure to stop at Le Saint Chocolate, especially if you are a chocolate lover. Their prices are very reasonable. Try the traditional candies of Provence, Calissons de Provence, at one of the gourmet stores. We brought back a small box as a souvenir.

Scrumptious pastries on display at Le Saint Chocolate. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©

There are many clothing boutiques in Avignon, France. Several shops sell the traditional Provence candy, Calissons de Provence and some offer wine tasting. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©

Palais des Papes

Our first stop was the UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Palais des Papes, also known as the Pope’s Palace. This magnificent Gothic palace is the largest of its kind in Europe. The building once housed the papacy in the 14th century, when the French Pope Clement V moved it from Rome to Avignon. It remained here for 67 years at the insistence of King Philip IV to assert more power over the political instability of Rome. Seven popes reigned here between 1309 and 1377, turning the city into the spiritual heart of medieval Europe.

We wandered through vast chambers and echoing halls, imagining the lives that once filled them, before stepping onto the terrace for a panoramic view across the rooftops.

Touring the palace will take up to two hours. If you have mobility issues, this tour is not for you.

The UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Palais des Papes, also known as the Pope’s Palace. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©

Pont d’Avignon

Just beyond the palace stood the UNESCO World Heritage Site, Pont d’Avignon (Saint Bénezet Bridge). The legendary bridge, built in 1177, was once part of the important pilgrimage route across the Rhône River from Spain to Italy. Over the centuries, parts of the bridge were destroyed by conflict and flooding. Today, only four of the original 22 arches remain.

Standing there, watching the river flow beneath its arches, the famous 15th-century folk song Bridge of Avignon played in my head.

Scenes of the famous Pont d’Avignon and views of the Walled City with Melanie Lomond. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©

The Little Train of Avignon

Later, we boarded the little tourist train from the palace square. Its winding route through narrow lanes and shaded courtyards offered glimpses of Avignon we might have missed on foot. This tour takes 45 minutes.

Flavours of the Rhône and Provence

Avignon is also the capital of the Côtes du Rhône, where wine is more than a drink; it’s an identity.

Les Halles d’Avignon

Although Les Halles d’Avignon, the city’s famous covered market, was closed the day we visited, it’s one to plan for when it’s open.
Locals say it’s the best place to sample regional cheeses, olives, herbs, and fresh produce straight from nearby farms.
Even without it, food here tells the story of the region.

Where to Eat in Avignon

Le Carré du Palais

The first evening, we dined at Le Carré du Palais, steps from the Palais des Papes. This Michelin-recommended restaurant captures the authentic taste of Provence and the Rhône Valley with fragrant herbs, sun-ripened vegetables and regional wines. Its 10,000-bottle wine cellar is housed in the former Bank of France vault. As night fell, the palace square shimmered under golden light, a fitting close to our first full day in Avignon.

A welcome glass of local wine arrived before our Grand Menu (Servi Midi et Soir), two courses for €42 that perfectly showcased Provençal gastronomy.

The Nougat de Foie Gras Français with apricot and almond praline crumble balanced richness with subtle sweetness. The Saumon Mariné aux Épices Douces, marinated salmon with citrus and peanuts, was delicate and refreshing.
 For the main course, I chose the Filet de Taureau Camarguais, a tender cut of Camargue bull served with candied peppers and almonds. My daughter, Melanie, enjoyed the Saffron Risotto with roasted prawns and shellfish foam.

The Le Carré du Palais is open for lunch and dinner with seating available on the terrace overlooking the square and the Pope’s Palace, inside or in the courtyard.

Inside the Le Carré du Palais. Left: Saffron Risotto with roasted prawns and shellfish foam. Right: Nougat de Foie Gras Français with apricot and almond praline crumble Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©

Le Carré du Palais menu items, Left: Filet de Taureau Camarguais, a tender cut of Camargue bull. Right: Saumon Mariné aux Épices Douces, marinated salmon with citrus and peanuts. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©

Italian Queen

As our second day faded, we returned to Avignon in the soft glow of late afternoon. Dinner that night was at the Italian Queen, a lively restaurant on one of the main streets leading out of the walled city and back to our hotel.

The restaurant was filled with the aroma of wood-fired pizza. We shared a salad with sun-dried tomatoes and artichokes, a burrata pizza topped with San Marzano tomatoes and fresh basil, followed by handmade pasta that transported us straight to Italy. The pasta was perfectly cooked and the evening relaxed, a grand finale to our full day.

Dinner at the Italian Queen. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©

Dinner at the Italian Queen. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©

Day 3 – A Provence Day Tour, Day Trips from Avignon

The next morning, we headed to the meeting spot in front of the Avignon Visitor’s Centre to meet our prearranged tour. Since there were only three people booked on the tour, it meant we basically had a private chauffeur for a full-day journey through Provence’s countryside. The picturesque landscape unfolded like a painting, with silvery olive groves, vineyards heavy with fruit and hilltop villages.

Our first stop was the Pont du Gard, the tallest Roman bridge ever built, a masterpiece of engineering still standing strong after nearly two millennia.

Château des Baux-de-Provence, crowned on a limestone ridge overlooking the Alpilles. The view was endless, the air scented with pine and rosemary. The place’s stillness felt timeless.

In Gordes, white-stone houses seemed to cling to the hillside, the panorama stretching endlessly across the valley. Nearby, Roussillon shimmered in brilliant shades of ochre — deep reds, oranges, and golds set against the blue Provençal sky.

At our final stop, Fontaine-de-Vaucluse, we followed the emerald waters of the Sorgue River to its mysterious spring. We paused at the historic Vallis Clausa paper mill, where artisans still craft paper by hand using centuries-old techniques.

Fontaine-de-Vaucluse and the crystal-clear waters of the Sorgue River are fed by a mysterious spring. Photo: Wendy Nordvik-Carr©

Departure – Embarking on the Riverside Cruise Ravel

After a leisurely breakfast at the Grand Avignon Hotel and a final round of boutique browsing, our chauffeur arrived at noon. Bags packed with small treasures and memories, we left the walled city behind.

When we reached the Riverside Ravel, the captain greeted us on the gangway. As we boarded the vessel, glasses of champagne were waiting as our luggage was whisked away by our butler for our sailing.

Discover more about France in our ongoing series, including our luxury Riverside river cruise through some of the area’s most storied landscapes.

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