Exotic Istanbul: Best Places to Save and Splurge

Whether you want to splurge like a sultan or stretch your liras on street snacks, in Istanbul your choices are vast.

“Oh, East is East and West is West, and never the twain shall meet.” But I beg to differ with Rudyard Kipling’s postulation. Istanbul, once known as Constantinople, the capital of the Byzantine and then Ottoman Empires defies the English writer’s premise.

Where else in the world can you have breakfast in Europe, lunch in Asia and perhaps a dinner cruise on the Bosphorus Strait that joins the two continents? Only in Istanbul, Turkiye (formerly known as Turkey, the country changed its name in 2021). Istanbul is a fascinating city of diverse neighbourhoods and contrasts. Whirling dervishes spin and meditate in universal harmony while folks party ‘til dawn at the discos on trendy Istiklal Street. Mini-skirted girls stroll the bazaars arm in arm with hijab-clad friends.
Note: All prices are approximated in Canadian dollars.

My “You Only Live Once” Splurge List

Magic Carpets

Turkish carpets and kilims can be found on almost every corner of Istanbul. I can’t recommend specific dealers, but I can offer some bargaining advice. The vendors can be aggressive and quite clever about luring you into their shops with offers of tea and sweets. When I told a sales guy I had no room in my house for another carpet, he countered: “If I offered you a Ferrari, couldn’t you find a garage to put it in?” If you like a rug, let the seller open with a price, and if you are still interested, start your haggling by offering half.

Soak Like a Sultan

After a busy day of shopping or sightseeing, rejuvenate with a traditional Turkish bath (hamam). One of the best is Catma Mescit, designed in 1533 by one of the Ottoman Empire’s greatest architects, Mimar Sinan. You put your clothes in a locker and wrap yourself in a thin Turkish towel called a pestemal. You enter the central area of the bath, the hot and humid caldarium. Marble basins are located in the corners where your attendant rinses you with warm water. Then, you lie on the central heated marble slab, where you will be exfoliated front and back, head to toe. This is no time for modesty. Next comes a bubble foam wash followed by a massage. Relax and cool off with some tea and sweets. I guarantee you will be squeaky clean. The VIP treatment at Catma Mescit costs about $250. The Hamam offers complimentary transfers to and from most central hotels.

High Tea at the Pera Palace

Towards the end of the 19th century, luxury train rides from Western Europe to Istanbul aboard the Orient Express were all the rage. The Pera Palace Hotel was built in 1892 to provide train travellers with the posh amenities they expected. Pera was the first hotel to have electricity. Agatha Christie is said to have written Murder on the Orient Express here. Enjoy high tea ($65 per person) in the Michelin-rated Kubelli Lounge afternoons from 3:00 to 6:00 p.m. Turkiye, believe it or not, is the world’s largest tea consumer per capita. Sip a perfectly brewed cup of Earl Gray and nibble on smoked salmon sandwiches and other savouries. Scones, tarts, macarons and more will satisfy those with a sweet tooth. The pianist takes requests.

Fairmont’s Luxury Haven

Recognized as the “Best Luxury Contemporary Hotel” in the Globe by World Luxury Hotel Awards 2022, Fairmont Quasar Istanbul provides a sophisticated haven from Istanbul’s madding crowds. It’s Aila restaurant made the first edition of the Michelin Guide Istanbul 2023. Sip a raki after dinner. This national drink of Turkiye, also known as Lion’s Milk, is a twice distilled grape brandy laced with aniseed (similar in taste to ouzo). The hotel’s concierge has encyclopedic knowledge of his city and its culinary finds. Allow plenty of time to graze at the bountiful breakfast buffet.

Culinary Backstreets Tour

We met our guide, Benoit, for the Two Markets; Two Continents Culinary Backstreets tour at the Galata Bridge in the trendy Karakoy neighbourhood. Benoit introduced us to a traditional Turkish breakfast, a spread of tomatoes, cucumber, cheeses, salted yogurt, jams, honey, simit (Turkiye’s answer to the bagel) and the ubiquitous little glass cup of hot black tea. Our moveable feast covered both European and Asian sides of the city via a ferry ride across the Bosphorus. We enjoyed a smorgasbord of tastes at places I would never have found on my own. I learned about Turkish coffee (never stir it), Baklava (the real stuff isn’t made with honey), flatbreads, kebabs and much more. It was a rich stew of Turkish history and diversified dishes. We also learned about evil eyes and how to find a convenience store that sells alcohol. The tour ended with samples of Turkish Delight at the shop where it was invented by the confectioner at the Royal Palace during the Ottoman Empire. Come hungry with an expandable waistband. The cost per adult, $185, includes a lot of food.

Turkish Viagra and the Spices of Life

Enter the vaulted 17th-century Spice Market (also known as the Egyptian Bazaar), and your nose will be assaulted by the heady aromas of exotic spices, tea mixtures, nuts, perfumes and more. Where to start? I suggest the Hayfene stall, where owner Ahmet will demonstrate how to identify top grade saffron and give you a sample of some of his spice mixtures. Martha Stewart is a fan of the place. At Kalmaz Baharat, located in the market’s side wing, they sell an aphrodisiac dubbed Turkish Viagra. For lunch, climb the tiled stairs to Pandeli restaurant for fine Turkish-Ottoman dishes. For over a century, this Istanbul “institution” has served politicians and celebrities, including Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the founding father of the Turkish Republic, Audrey Hepburn, Sean Connery and Sarah Jessica Parker. Try the eggplant pie or slow-stewed lamb and finish with a uniquely Turkish dessert of caramelized pudding made with chicken breast.

My “Cheap Thrills” Save List

Whirling Dervishes

Mevlevi are followers of the Muslim mystic, Rumi who incorporated whirling meditation into his teachings to purify the soul. Fake whirling dervish shows can be seen at various theatres and restaurants, but to see an authentic religious ritual, the Galata Dervish Monastery generally has services on Sundays at 5:00 p.m. and sometimes on Saturdays; admission if $5. Call +90 212 245 4141.

Splendiferous Palaces and Mosques

Immerse yourself in Istanbul’s fascinating architecture, starting in Sultanahmet Park, where vendors sell simits, roasted corn and chestnuts, kids play tag under the palm trees, women in veils mingle with men in suits, and tourists snap selfies. You are at the world’s crossroads and just steps from a modern tram stop. At one end of the square is the peachy-coloured Hagia Sophia, once the greatest Christian church in the world; now a mosque. Behind it sits the sprawling Topkapi Palace, the fabled home to Ottoman sultans and their harems. The dagger set with three whopper emeralds and diamonds in the Treasury is but one example of the staggering wealth of the sultans. Nearby is the eerily beautiful Basilica Cistern, a vast underground reservoir lined with columns where coloured lights are projected.

At the far end of the square stands the imposing Blue Mosque, famous for its six minarets and blue tiles and currently undergoing renovations. You are standing in the middle of the 2,000-year-old saga of Istanbul.

Note: To enter all mosques, one must cover one’s knees and shoulders, and women must wear a headscarf. One must also remove one’s shoes.

Street Food 101

The variety of cheap street food you can buy from various stalls and carts around town is remarkable. You can identify the licenced food sellers by their certification numbers displayed on their carts or stands.
Köfte ekmek are grilled spicy meatballs served in bread with fresh sliced tomatoes, onions, parsley, and grilled green peppers. Balık ekmek is a sandwich of grilled mackerel, fresh lettuce, and onions with a squeeze of lemon. Be careful of the bones! Wet burgers consist of beef patties and soft white buns flavoured with a garlic/tomato sauce and steamed in a box. Not for the faint of heart are kokoreç, finely chopped grilled sheep intestines mixed with oregano, red pepper salt and sometimes tomato.
If you’re on the prowl for some late-night street food, head to Midyeci Ahmet, for fresh mussels stuffed with spicy rice and a squeeze of lemon juice. Istanbul has several branches; most are open until about 4:00 a.m. Turkiye’s most popular street food is donar kebab. Made of lamb, beef, or chicken that is slowly roasted on a rotating vertical skewer, the meat is wrapped in a pita and topped with veggies, including tomato, lettuce, cabbage, onion with sumac, fresh or pickled cucumber and various types of sauces. Turkish ice cream, made with goat milk and a dash of wild orchid root, has a chewier texture than American ice cream or Italian gelato. At Maras Dovne Dondurmasi stalls all over town pick your flavour and be entertained as the vendors play tricks with the scoops of dondurma and their customers.

World’s Oldest Shopping Mall

Sultan Mehmet II ordered the Grand Bazaar to be built in 1461. This labyrinth of shops and pushy vendors is the world’s oldest mall. It bustled during Byzantine and Ottoman eras and still thrives today with more than 4,000 shops. The jewelry store windows are blinding, the carpets beguiling, and the fake designer bags and scarves overwhelming. Take a deep breath and be prepared to get lost for a few hours.
At Havuzlu Restaurant, which opened in 1959, you’ll find traditional Turkish and Ottoman fare such as lentil soup, stuffed peppers and a dizzying array of mezes (appetizers).

Getting Around

Istanbul is a huge city straddling two continents. Often, public transportation is your fastest and cheapest bet. Buy an Istanbul Transportation Card from yellow machines in most stations. It is good for subways, buses, ferries and trams. My husband and I put about $20 on a card that we could both use. We took at least 20 rides each and we never ran out of credit. Taxis are another story. In touristy areas, cab drivers can charge you outrageous rates. We were quoted 50 Euros for a ride that would cost about $7 Canadian using the metre. Tip: If you need a taxi, get to your hotel and book it. Drivers like to maintain positive relations with hotels.

Hip Coffee Labs

I must confess I am no fan of traditional thick Turkish coffee. I am an expresso girl. Thankfully, one can find Coffee Labs all over Istanbul. This new generation coffee is served in every way from traditional cappuccinos to caramel lattes. Herbal teas, frappes and myriad other drink options make Starbucks look bland. Coffee Labs also serves tempting homemade pastries and sandwiches.

Cruise the Bosphorus

Take a day-long ride on the public ferry, leaving from the first terminal east of the Galata Bridge on the Old Town side of the Golden Horn. Ideally, get the 10:35 a.m. ferry, which puts you in Anadolu Kavagi for lunch and returns early evening. A two-way trip costs about $3 for adults and $1.50 for kids.

Arasta Bazaar

The Grand Bazaar can be overwhelming. Consider a shopping spree in the smaller, calmer Arasta Bazaar, behind the Blue Mosque. If you’ve visited a hamam you will be familiar with the Turkish towel called pestemal. Instead of terry cloth they’re made of thin absorbent cotton. They come in various colours and sizes and make excellent souvenirs. Jennifer’s Hamam sells good quality towels, bathrobes and other textiles woven on shuttle looms using organic fibres. Other shops sell carpets, jewelry, ceramics and more.

If You Go:

Keep informed! Before taking an adventure to any destination, check with your country’s current travel advisories. The Government of Canada’s official source of travel information and advice, the Travel Advice and Advisories help you to make informed decisions and travel safely while you are outside Canada. These advisories offer crucial details on safety concerns, health precautions, and entry requirements specific to your travel destination. If you’re planning a visit within Canada, be sure to explore the **best things to do in Banff**, such as hiking scenic trails, soaking in hot springs, and marveling at stunning mountain views. Staying informed allows you to enjoy your trip while being well-prepared for any unexpected situations.

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